Once again the Bus service has surpassed itself! A great journey from Battenbang to Phnom Penh. It took just over 4 hrs and was very pleasant. We bypassed the big service stops in favour of a locals restaurant stop again. It’s fine but the loos are not the best!
There were 2 drivers for the 4 hour journey and one of them had a very loud hawking cough, I realised a little later that this was part of a series of tics that he had. Interestingly he is the 4th man I’ve met since being in Cambodia with noticeable physical tics.
I rested on the bus but didn’t manage any sleep, after another morning waking the bloody temple music! 🎶
Phnom Penh is busy and bustling. The Bus Station is in the centre and is heaving with people, parcels, minivans and coaches.
I grab a Tuk Tuk and we set off for my hotel.
I’m staying in a smallish hotel that used to be the US Ambassadors residence! It’s lovely! 😍
My room is on the very top floor with a small outside terrace and also a small inside terrace! Which is perfect for sitting in when it’s raining! ☔️
My plan for today is to do very little, so I have a swim in the pool, chat to some nice Kiwis, read up on Phnom Penh then head out for some dinner.
The Australian ladies I met had recommended a place which is nearby.
I should have trusted my instincts as to where it was instead of asking someone and then being sent in a complete circle before finding it back where I had been! 🤦♀️
Anyway, the food was great I had a Cambodian Chicken Curry and a bottle of water.
I am pleased and relieved to say that my room was perfect. A comfy bed, decent aircon and best of all completely quiet!! 😍
So after a very good nights sleep and a tasty breakfast. I met up with my Tuk Tuk driver from yesterday, Mr Lucky (not his real name I’m guessing!) and we set off for today’s trip.
I knew today was going to be difficult and emotional.
My first stop was at S-21 or Tull Sleng Genocide Museum.
The building used to be a Secondary School before the Khmer Rouge started using it as a prison and interrogation/torture centre between 1975 -1979.
As S-21 held many high ranking prisoners from within the Khmer Rouge, as well as intellectuals, monks and other enemies of “Angkar” the name used for the “Organisation” that was the Communist Party of Cambodia, Meticulous records were kept and photographs taken.
The prisoners included many women, children and a few westerners.
S-21 is a grim and difficult place to visit, but it’s important to see and remember what happened in Cambodia in order to prevent something like this happening again.
Also to honour and remember all those that died.
During this period nearly 1 in 4 Cambodians were murdered.
There are believed to be only 12 known survivors of S-21
One of them, Chum Mey, is still alive aged 94 and was at the site recounting his story. He survived due to his ability to fix typewriters, the same typewriters used to record the torture of himself and his fellow prisoners.
I was lucky enough to see him and I bought his book.
I found my visit profoundly moving.
From S-21 we drove out to an area called The Choeung Ek Genocidal Centre, or Killing Fields. This site is around 15 kilometres outside of Phnom Penh. It used to be an Orchard before it became the Execution centre and killing field for the Khmer Rouge. It is one of over 300 Killing Fields in Cambodia.
Over 17,000 people were killed here including all the prisoners taken from S-21.
By the time we arrived we were in the middle of a huge storm. The staff provided Umbrellas and an Audio Guide.
The area looks and feels quite pleasant which makes it difficult to comprehend the atrocities that took place here. Once again the Audio guide was extremely helpful and informative.
Whilst walking across a muddy area between grave sites I unfortunately slipped on and then into the mud. I was completely covered in wet sticky mud, all over my back, legs, hands and arms, my bag and I broke the umbrella. All of this happened in front of a large Mexican tour party who seemed very concerned about my welfare.
I didn’t seem to have hurt myself so I continued with my tour.
I wouldn’t have been able to take photographs even if I’d felt inclined due to the mud all over my hands.
I don’t understand people take smiling selfies in front of a Memorial Stupa full of the sculls and bones of the people who died here. Mind boggling and very disrespectful.
Another deeply disturbing visit.
Once I arrived back at my hotel, I asked the staff for some cleaning cloths for my bag and shoes and explained that I had fallen in the mud. They were so incredibly kind and concerned for me that I just lost it.
All the emotions from the day came out and I went to my room and sobbed.
I called my beautiful Georgia and explained everything that I’d seen and how heartbreaking it was. She was wonderful and let me cry and get it all out. Thank you my beautiful girl. 💛💛
Then 2 of the staff knocked at my door offering to clean my shoes and bag for me and they bought me some tiger balm for my back, which was aching a little. Their kindness set me off again!
Thank you also to my Gorgeous Rebecca for calling and letting me vent again! 💛💛
Cambodias recent history is tragic and brutal, but as a people and a nation they are beautiful. They are working so hard to move forward in a peaceful, respectful way.
I was pretty tired so I walked just a few minutes down the road for dinner, to a rather fancy French Restaurant. I ended up having Steak & Frites with delicious butter sauce and a glass of wine! I can’t remember the last time I had a Steak or Wine for that matter!
I think I needed it after such an emotional day.
Today’s plans were to have a much lighter day. So I took a walk to the Royal Palace which is about 15, 20 mins away. I was wearing a dress with no sleeves but had my scarf with me to cover up.
I was hassled a little by one particular Tuk Tuk driver, who just wouldn’t accept that I didn’t need him, then unfortunately my scarf was not an acceptable cover up at the Palace, I could have purchased a hideous T-shirt to wear but TBH I was hot and bit over everything by this point. I decided to give up and come another day when I’m wearing acceptable attire.
It’s a fairly short walk to the National Museum which was next in my list. Again I got hassled by the same Tuk Tuk driver, who eventually gave up. Then another guy came over asked where I was going then informed me it was a Buddhist holy day and I wouldn’t be able to get into the museum until 2pm and I’d need to be covered up. Well, I had literally just googled the dress code, so knew that was rubbish and the Buddhist holy day was also total bullshit, I got scammed with this one on my first visit to Bangkok! I told him he was talking bollocks and he left me alone.
The museum is fantastic, small but with so many wonderful artefacts from the Khmer Empire. It’s also in a lovely cool building!
I had a good wander and sat in the garden for a bit.
Then I walked back to my hotel via a nice little coffee shop and had a delicious, sweet, iced caramel latte, which I desperately needed!
The temperature here is around 33 degrees but with the humidity the forecast says it feels like 40 degrees! I can confirm it really bloody does! 🥵🥵
I spent the rest of the afternoon chilling by the pool after a lovely catch up with Tracy. She had visited Cambodia in February so could completely relate to how I had been feeling. Thank you darling. ❤️
I went for a stroll in the evening, it definitely felt cooler. I found a nearby Rooftop bar, small but pleasant and had a drink then grabbed my staple, Vegetable Rice before heading back. On the way I treated myself to a Magnum Ice Cream, that reminded me of last year’s trip and my time in Koh Lanta with the fabulous Anita! Who I’m looking forward to seeing in Australia in December. 😘👍❤️
I’m here in Phnom Penh for another day or so. I think I’m going to take it easy. My back is actually a little sore today!
Have a great week everyone.
Georgia have a fabulous time at Ciderfest! 👍❤️👍❤️
💚💛❤️🩵🩷
Books read.
The last Devil to Die, book 4 of the Thursday Murder Club. Richard Osman.
Absolutely fabulous, but emotional. He writes these books so well they make me laugh out loud and this one made me cry!
Hereandthereclaire.com 