Monday 7th April – Thursday 10th April 2025

I woke up feeling a little better than yesterday, but not 100% my ribs are also hurting again! 😩 Still, places to be things to do! 

The weather is awful, heavy rain. We have been very lucky with the weather it would seem. 

Grantley had some breakfast and I had a cup of lemon tea then we made our way downstairs. 

We had booked a taxi with the guy on reception, explaining which airport we were heading to. There are 2 airports in opposite directions. Unfortunately, something clearly got lost in translation because our driver was there ready to take us to the wrong airport. For some strange reason he was unable to go to the correct airport, although it is the same journey time. The receptionist tried to get another taxi, but told us no one wanted to do it as it was raining!! WTAF! 😳 He eventually found a driver, but of course this option was more expensive, luckily not by much. 

The driver arrived in a fancy people carrier with a fluorescent orange interior and we made our way to the airport. 

By the time we got to the airport Grantley had started to feel unwell, nauseous, cold and very out of sorts. 😬

Luckily it was an easy check in and the flight was on time and boarding etc were a breeze. 

We arrived at Dalaman Airport in lovely sunshine. Our pre booked taxi was easy to find and we headed to Fethiye, a nice drive through some towns and mountains. 

Fethiye, looked amazing, a beautiful big bay, lots of boats, blue sea and blue sky! 💙

Poor Grantley was still feeling poorly, so he went straight to bed when we arrived. 

I had a little wander around, dropped off some laundry then sat in a cute coffee shop opposite the hotel and wrote my blog. I then found a shop and bought some water, plain biscuits and a few bananas and went back to our room. 

Grantley and I figured the best thing for both of us was an early night, so, after some water and a banana that’s what we did. 

My bed was super comfortable and I got a really good nights sleep. We both woke up feeling loads better. My upset stomach felt better and my ribs were less painful. Grantley also felt lots better. The power of sleep! 

We had a nice light breakfast, then our first port of call was to check out where the Ferry Port is in relation to the hotel. I also wanted to go to the ticket office and check out things. 

After being given various incorrect directions and information, we located the ticket office, randomly under a different name (helpful, Not!) The port is only a 5 minute walk from the hotel, which is fab. 

We had a little mooch then Grantley wanted to go and visit some tombs up on the hill, so I opted to look around the old town and we’d meet up later. 

Just as I was walking across a road the strap on my handbag broke! The clip that attaches the strap had snapped. I’ve had this bag for a few years and it has served we remarkably well, so I was a little sad. I knew I should be able to get another strap, but no idea where. I asked in a little bag shop, they just said no. I asked in a boutique shop, they were a little more helpful and suggested the shoe repair guy by the fish market. 

On the way to the fish market I passed a women’s fashion shop, I thought they might sell straps. I popped in and spoke to the manager, a very nice older guy. He looked at my bag, removed the strap, then said leave it with me, come back in an hour. I asked the price and he just waved his hands at me. I left my strap with him and found somewhere to grab a little lunch. I found a cute little local place down by the water I had some food the and met up with Grantley. 

After an hour I went back to the shop, the man had an assistant run off to fetch my strap with new clips! Unfortunately the clips were too small to be able to attach. 😬 The gentleman got on the phone and had an animated conversation with someone, he hands the broken strap to another guy, who leaves the shop. He tells me to give him 15 mins. I went and sat on a bench outside with Grantley, 5 mins later he’s back with another older guy, more clips, they try then out on my back, chat nod, chat some more. The older guy wanders off. 10 mins later they are both back with my strap, which has larger, metal clips. They fit the strap on my bag It works! 😍 Everyone is happy, and nobody wants to take any money from me! This lovely man has spent a good portion of his morning getting my bag fixed out of the goodness of his heart. How bloody wonderful is that!! 😍❤️❤️ My bag is restored along with my faith in humanity! 

Grantley and I had walked around the fabulous fish market in Fethiye during the day and decided to go back there for dinner. 

The fish stalls are in the centre surrounded by lots of restaurants. You buy your fresh fish from the stalls then choose a restaurant who cooks your fish. Perfect set up!

By the evening it was raining, so the market wasn’t as busy as it would normally be. But it was fun. We chose a decent sized Sea Bass. The fish guys, clean and fillet it then pass it to the restaurant to cook. 

We’d chosen the restaurant that we’d chatted to earlier. 

We got a plate of mixed meze, we went for a medium sized plate as the guy said this was good for sharing. 

It was a lot of meze! When he said good for sharing I didn’t think he meant with a family of 10! It was also quite rich. Our beautifully grilled fished was delicious, the meze was good, but just to much. Under normal circumstances Grantley would have polished it all off but after being unwell he was being careful. 

The meal was good but expensive, especially given we left most of the meze we’d paid for. 😟 

I think in the summer when it’s busy the whole place is buzzing and it’s a spectacle watching the fish guys and the restaurants Vying for custom! 

Our plan for the following day included a couple of sites we really wanted to visit. 

Just outside of Fethiye is an abandoned village called Kayaköy. It’s sits in the hills between Fethiye and Olu Deniz. 

Until the beginning of the 20th century, Greek Christians and Turkish Muslims lived in the village together in relative harmony. But the loss of the 1st World War, the end of the Ottoman Empire and the attempted Greek occupation of the Anatolian region all played their part in the decline of Kayaköy. Greek Christians were forced to Fethiye Harbour for deportation and Muslim Turks were expelled from Greece. The village never recovered from these difficult times, when many were killed within the village and those that did remain finally left after an earthquake in 1957. The village has remained abandoned ever since. Turkish settlers have all refused to resettle the village due to its difficult and painful past, which they believe shrouds Kayaköy to this day. 

The book I’m currently reading, Birds without Wings is apparently set in or inspired by Kayaköy. 

Grantley and I opted to get a taxi to the village after being quoted €150 for a private driver to take us, wait for us then take us into Olu Deniz, wait then return! 

Our taxi driver waited for us, at no extra cost. Total for the day €20

The Village is on a hillside and so I was expecting it to be a little steep. 

More or less as soon as we entered the village Grantley took a right turn, I obviously followed. We then ended up walking completely off the path, over ever more unstable and steep loose stone trails! My absolute worst nightmare. We ended up at the back of a church, which we couldn’t enter, up and down slippery slopes, I said to Grantley that the reviews I’d read said that the village was surprisingly easy to walk around, clearly not where we were! Grantley eventually led the way back to what was the correct, less slippery, less treacherous path!! I swear to god the boy is trying to finish me off! 😂😂

Once I was on a firmer footing I could begin to enjoy the beauty of the place. It does have a vibe, not ghostly just something. 

I think being here in the spring is perfect, the new buds  and fresh greens everywhere are breathtaking. There were also poppies dotted around which I found very poignant, given the history of the village. 

I absolutely loved exploring this site. It’s in a stunning place and definitely one of my highlights. 

I had a fabulous chat to a lady selling trinkets down by the exit, she ended up giving me 5 little bracelets, “for my family” another wonderful interaction.

Grantley and I then spent the rest of the afternoon chilling down by the beach in Olu Deniz. Looking at the startlingly blue Mediterranean Sea, we even had a toe dip, it was blooming freezing. 🥶 

Once back in Fethiye, we had a lovely walk by the Marina before deciding we both fancied some pasta for dinner! Luckily I’d spotted a cute little Italian right by our hotel. 

The food was very good, and really hit the spot for both of us. 

Our last day in Fethiye we spent walking right around the bay, which was really enjoyable, just seeing everyone going about their day, fishing, working, walking, doing Tai Chi, plus the views are pretty bloody fabulous, the marina, the Mediterranean and then a backdrop of snow capped mountains, gorgeous. 

I think Fethiye has been the perfect stop after Istanbul. It’s been busy but also restorative. 

Tomorrow we are leaving Turkey and making our way to Greece and Rhodes. 💙🩵

Have a fabulous weekend everyone.

Love you all.

😘🩷😘🩷😘🩷

Books Read.

Still reading one! 

I’ve been a bit rubbish to be honest! 

I did watch The Residence on Netflix which I thought was brilliant and very funny. 

Tuesday 1st April – Sunday 6th April.

I was a little,sad to be leaving Hun Hun and Thailand, as they had been a perfect respite after the chaos of India. But I’m heading somewhere new & exciting and seeing my Grantley! 😍

My bus to Bangkok was super easy, comfortable and I even managed to catch the earlier one, which was handy. The airport hotel was great, it had the biggest bed I’ve ever seen! Sooo comfy 😴😴

Nothing much to report on the flight, it left on time and I was looking forward to relaxing with a few films during the 7 hour flight to Doha. Well, that didn’t happen, there were 6 rows of seats whose screens didn’t work, and I was in one of them! 😩 TBH I ended dozing for a lot of the flight which is unlike me, then by the time they’ve fed you a couple of times, you e had a wee, a walk around and read your book we were there! 

Doha now has a very fancy transit lounge full of super expensive very high end shops. A little out of my budget, so I found a bench amongst the nice green foliage and drank my water and eat my packet of Lays!  😂

Second leg to Istanbul was great, landed on time, collected my case very promptly, then had a little bit of a faff trying to find the driver I’d booked, it was a rather convoluted process not helped by the fact the airport wifi wasn’t working. Anyway, I eventually met up,with him and he worked me through the night to my hotel in the centre of Istanbul. 

I arrived at around 9pm, after a 24hr journey, Grantley was arriving at approximately 2am, so I set my alarm and grabbed some sleep. 

Then around 2.15 there was a gentle knock at the door and there he was! My boy. It was amazing to see him after almost a year. 

We had a massive hug, a little catch up then got some sleep. 

We were up early the next morning, it was just fantastic to see him and catch up on everything.  We are both excited to explore Istanbul. 

The weather was a little cloudy and much chillier than I’ve been used to! Grantley thought it was great! 

Our hotel is in a really central spot for all the major sites, so we just headed out in the direction of The Hagia Sofia and hoped for the best. 

I knew that Istanbul was famous for its cats, but oh wow! They are literally everywhere, and they are well looked after and friendly! 😍 This is my dream scenario. 😂 They are so beautiful and so regal, they just sit where they like and wait for attention. 

There is a fabulous park just by our hotel, called Gülhane Park, and it was full of them. 😍 Kerry, you and Richard would absolutely love it! As would all my other cat loving friends. 

You end up being next to a beautiful, ancient, monument but being distracted by the cats who are siting all over it! 😂😂

Getting out earlyish was an excellent plan and we definitely missed the crowds and queues. 

The Hagia Sofia was magnificent, absolutely stunning. We visited the museum experience after (should have done it first 🤦‍♀️) which went through its full and varied history. Fascinating. 

After this we visited the Blue Mosque, or Sultanahmet Camii, again, absolutely gorgeous. This whole area is brilliant to walk around, so much to see and admire. We grabbed a beer on a fabulous roof terrace that had amazing views. 

Then we continued walking and visited the Grand Bazaar, which is huge! So many lanes going in all directions, so much stuff, so many people! It was amazing 🤩 

More walking and just discovering the area before another well deserved beer! Then the sun made an appearance. 💛

There was another Mosque we wanted to visit but when we got there it was closed for prayers. It’s close by so we’ll go back tomorrow. 

We had dinner across the road from the hotel, very tasty. 😋 

I will just say that the prices here are much higher than I’d anticipated. Obviously they can’t compare to prices in South East Asia, but even by European standards I feel they are high. Especially the costs of the entry tickets. But it is what it is, probably due to the instability of the Lira. 

It was a fabulous first day. The only slight issue was when I tripped up a kerb and really bashed my knee 🤦‍♀️😂 It hurt like hell, and got very swollen not to mention the embarrassment factor! Icing it helped! 

After an early night and a good rest we were up and at them again first thing. My knee was swollen and painful, but ok to walk on. 

Our first stop was the Basilica Cistern. An absolute marvel of Byzantine architecture and ingenuity. It holds over 80,000 cubic meters of water and covers over 10,000 square meters of space. It is the largest of the underground cisterns in Istanbul. I thought it was absolutely breathtaking. 

From here we walked up to the Topkapi Palace. Such a lovely walk past the Hagia Sofia and through lanes and past parks and lots of cats! 🐈 😻

The entry fee to the palace was very steep, we figured it would be worth it and it was. We spent a long time exploring the Palace, the grounds, the Harem. The views from here were also pretty awesome. 

I’m sure it wouldn’t have taken so long if I wasn’t hobbling a little! The swelling on my knee made steps a bit tricky, and obviously there were lots of uneven steps! 

From here we walked back down to the mosque we couldn’t visit yesterday, which again was closed for prays! We decided to wait and had a look round the Egyptian Spice Market….Bonkers Busy! 😱

The Mosque was beautiful, such gorgeous tiles, then right up on the ceiling of the largest dome was a little red, heart shaped ballon, that a child obviously let go! It was very cute. ❤️

I love the area around this Mosque and Square, it’s very busy with families, couples, cats and dogs just chilling! 

For dinner we popped back to a restaurant that had tried to lure us in earlier, with the offer of free baklava! We both opted for a kebab meal, I had chicken skewers and Grantley had Lamb. The food was good, and we did indeed have free Baklava! 😍

For our third day we had decided to cross over the Galatea Bridge and walk to Galatea Tower, then onto an area called Ortakoy. From here we were going to take a ferry to the Asian side of the Bosphorus. 

The weather wasn’t the best, cloudy and a bit damp and dull, but off we went. 

The walk across the Galata Bridge was interesting, it was Saturday and the bridge was full of guys fishing. 

We reached the Galata Tower and then continued our walk through the main shopping street, Ishtikal Caddesi, which was more European, but also interesting. We found an excellent exhibition about Palestine and its geo political history, fascinating and heartbreaking. 

Our plan to go to Ortakoy went slightly awry after we took a slight right instead of a slight left! However it was all good as we walked through an interesting, less touristy area. We ended up back down by Galata Bridge, where Grantley sampled a delicious, fresh Balik Ekmek, or Fish wrap, full of fish, salad, seasoning. It was really, really good! 

Then we jumped on the passenger ferry to the Asian side! This was so much fun. 

We grabbed a cheap posh chicken wrap for dinner. 

This might have been a mistake as I woke up in the night with the most horrendous indigestion, the worst I’ve ever had. I also just felt not great. 

I still didn’t feel ok in the morning. I’m also still getting pain from where I damaged my rib in Thailand!! 😩🤦‍♀️

Grantley took himself off for a walk and to visit the Archeological museum, while I rested in the room. 

When he got back we went out to visit another Mosque that we wanted to see, Süleymaniye Mosque. It was a bit of a trek up a big old hill, but we got there in the end. We then walked through the area around the university to have a look at an Aqueduct. Then strolled back down in to the old town. 

By the time we got back, I was feeling a bit rough, so took myself off to bed! 

To be honest, I think for me it’s been a big change in diet, from veggie rice and the odd Singa beer, to bread, cheese and meat! We’ve also been averaging around 23,000 steps a day! A few more than I was doing in Hun Hin! 

I’ve really enjoyed our time in Istanbul, I’ve loved the history, the vibe, the cats and I’ve especially loved sharing it all with Grantley. 

It’s been a blast. 

Tomorrow we are heading to Fethiye on the coast. 

Have a great week everyone.

I love & miss you. 

💛💜🩷❤️🩵💚

Books read.

Night Watching. Tracy Sierra. This is the book club book. It was better and different to what I’d originally expected. 

Tracey, you’ll be pleased to know I’ve started Birds without wings! 

Tuesday 25th March – Sunday 30th March 2025

My last few days in Hua Hin were great fun. Lots more strolling along the beach, swimming in the pool and generally having a chilled time. 😎

I’ve also been having a few fabulous Thai foot massages. I’ve been back to the same place and the women there are so beautiful, friendly and kind. It feels like a personal experience, the massage I have on one foot/leg differs to the other. They can feel where they need to work on and the end result is amazing. 🥰❤️

As I mentioned in my previous blog there are a few Russian families here, Scandinavians, German there are also a few English people but I hadn’t really chatted to to many people whilst I’ve been here. 

My last week however have been much more pleasant and fun after meeting and getting to know a lovely Australian guy called Daniel. He’s here for a month on his own for a holiday. We’ve had some meals, some cocktails, some chats, exchanged book recommendations and generally had a great time. 

It’s surprising what a difference it makes when you have connections with people. 

It got me thinking about my journey over the last 3 months and the fact that it’s been the most sociable period of travel that I’ve had to date. 

In Sri Lanka I met up with the fabulous Tracey, I also met up with lovely Lisa and Matt and Alex & Leah! A veritable smorgasbord of social interactions!! 

I then spent over 2 weeks with a group of really great people in India. Living in close proximity, seeing them every day. Which I loved. 

I think this has been a real change for me. I usually spend my travel time alone, perhaps meeting people along the way, but not really spending any quality time with anyone or making deep connections. 

I guess that the difference is that in the past I have travelled for shorter periods and also whilst I had the Coffee Shop. 

Coffee on the Corner was my baby and I loved it, it was also a hugely social job. I spent all day, every day, interacting with people, both on a superficial, friendly, hospitality basis but also more often on a deeper more personal basis, as the majority of my customers became regulars who I cared about, many also became friends. This level of social interaction daily is fantastic but it’s also exhausting. So my 3 month travels in the summer offered me the space I needed to recharge, regroup and be comfortable alone and reconnect with myself. 

I now no longer have the Coffee Shop, I’ve been traveling for nearly 11 months, I’ve recharged, regrouped, connected with myself and am beginning to need a greater level of social interaction! 😍

I am at heart a people person, I get a buzz from being around people, chatting, laughing, getting to know people or alternatively spending time with people I already know, who know me, who know everything about me, sharing jokes, stories, gossip or just being together.  I miss this. I miss my family, I miss my friends. (Writing this has made me quite emotional, which is not great as I’m sitting in a very busy coffee shop!) 

I think the reason I’m feeling so emotional at the moment is what’s happened over the last few days.

I was due to leave Hua Hin on Saturday 29th. I had a bus booked to go to Bangkok for 3 days before flying out of Thailand on Wednesday morning. 

Unfortunately those plans have had to change.

I was sitting chilling by the pool on Friday afternoon, after a busy morning. When I got a message from my friend Jane, asking if I was OK? I then got a phone call from Tracey asking the same thing. As I’m sure you are all aware by now, there was a massive earthquake in Myanmar around lunchtime, the tremors reached all the way to Bangkok, which saw quite a bit of damage, swaying high rises and a collapsed building, and sadly many fatalities. 

I have been really touched by the number of people that have messaged or contacted me to check if I’m OK. It really has been heartwarming. Thank you all for your thoughts and your care. This has also had the effect of making me miss home and all of you even more. 

It’s just as well that when I leave Thailand I will be heading towards family and friends. Reuniting with my Grantley, then spending more time with Tracey & Jaques, before heading back to good ole Blighty! 

Thailand & Hua Hin have given me just what I needed! Time now for the next adventure. 

Books Read.

The Tea Girl of Hummingbird Lane. Lisa See. This was a fantastic book. 

I would highly recommend it. ❤️

Friday 14th March – Tuesday 25th March 2025

I can’t believe I have been here in Hun Hin for over 2 weeks already! I’ve only got another 5 days left.

I thought I might struggle a little with spending 3 weeks here, not doing very much, but I’ve actually really enjoyed it! 

Initially I was very tired and a little run down after India, so the rest was much needed. Now I think I’m just relishing the time to do things slowly and not be rushing around.

It’s funny how you naturally fall into a routine. 

My routine has become one that consists of walking along the beach, swimming in the pool, reading and writing my blog! I have also had a couple of foot massages, heaven! And enjoyed chatting to some new people. 

Interestingly the complex I’m staying on has quite a few Russian guests, but unlike the ones I encountered in Hikkaduwa, these families are much friendlier and more sociable. There are also a few Scandinavian families a couple of English and some Aussies. It’s a very chilled, relaxed vibe, which is perfect. 

The beach here is beautiful, pretty clean most of the time. I try to do a mini beach clean every time on here but often there is little or nothing to pick up, which is fantastic. 

When I arrived we had plenty of blue sky days but the last week has been more overcast and cloudy, this is when you need to be mindful about the UV and making sure to wear sun cream. I’ve seen a few very pink people! 

I have finally finished battling with the Tiger Tour People, Fragrance of Taj! To be fair TourRadar, who I booked through have been very supportive and their customer service has been excellent, the guy from Fragrance of Taj, Sanjeev, sadly not! He’s a knobhead. However they are going to refund me 25% of fee, which is better than nothing! I could have continued fighting for more, but it was getting on my nerves. So that’s all finished. 

I had a lovely night out on Saturday when I decided to visit the Sky Bar that I can see from my complex. It should only take around 10 minutes to walk there, but due to some building work it requires a 10 minute taxi ride! 

My plan was to get there in time for the sunset. By the time I’d waited for the cab, the cab had negotiated the one way system and then the rather long wait for the lift to the 27th floor I made it just in the nick of time! It was a lovely sunset but I think on a less cloudy day the sunsets would be really stunning. 

It was pretty busy and initially I was told there were no outside tables, but the wonderful staff moved a few people around and found me a spot! 

I even braved the large glass balcony! 😳 I only stayed on it for a few seconds, then I heard a noise and was convinced the glass was cracking, it wasn’t! And swiftly moved away! 😂😂

It was great to chat to Anne, my rooftop, cocktail buddy! 😍❤️🍹and to Tish & Marsha, who were also having a fabulous time! 🩷

Having this downtime has also allowed me to catch up with a few other friends, which has been wonderful. As time goes on I do miss seeing everyone, a lot. 

Another thing I’ve been doing during this time is planning my next stop, which is going to be in Istanbul and to make it even more fabulous I’m going to be meeting my Grantley there!! 😍❤️

The last time I saw him was on 21st April last year when I dropped him at Bristol Airport for his El Camino Adventure! It’s going to be so fantastic to see him and explore Istanbul together, there’s some political unrest there at the moment, fingers crossed things settle down before we arrive! 😬🤞

I’ve also been thinking about my return to Newquay, looking at properties trying to decide what I want to do work wise, suggestions always welcome! 🙏 this requires me to try not to panic or get anxious about returning to the UK, homeless & Jobless! 

But before all of that I need to enjoy my remaining time here! 

That’s it for now.

Have a great week everyone.

Love & Miss you.

❤️🩵💜💙💛🩷💚

Books Read.

A tap on the Window. Linwood Barclay. A Cal Weaver book. A good read. 

In Memoriam. Alice Winn. This was incredible, a fantastic book. I would highly recommend it. 

I also watched Adolescence on Netflix. OMG! An absolute masterpiece. The acting was incredible, from everyone. The storyline and the debate it has triggered are much needed. A must watch. Especially for parents. 

I’ve nearly finished watching Toxic Town on Netflix, also a very good short series, based on a true story. 

Reflections on India. Part 2. 

For part 2 of my reflections on India I’d like to talk about my experience of men during my visit and also of my experience with women, or lack there of. This I feel ties into the Caste system and the different way women are treated depending on their Caste and on prevailing Gender attitudes. 

My experience and my thoughts on this were cumulative, it wasn’t immediately obvious but something that you start to be aware of, then it becomes blindingly obvious.

I am also only speaking of my personal experience, I do not have an extensive knowledge of the Caste System or Gender Politics in India. 

I learnt some things whilst in India and from further reading and research. 

On my arrival in India, all of the security staff and the staff at the phone  SIM counter were all male. I had arranged to be picked up, my driver was male. 

On arriving at my hotel, all of the staff I met were male. At breakfast the following day, again all the staff were male, I did meet the owner who was a lovely lady, who chatted to me for a short while, she used to live in England.  

My first outing was to an area called Khan Market, which was close to the hotel and was pretty upscale, I did see some women, mainly western white women shopping. There were a couple of women working in the bank and in a few of the shops, but not really that many. To be fair I didn’t notice this straight away, it was only after walking around for a bit I realised how few females were around. I was approached a couple of times asking if I wanted a Tuk Tuk or asking where I was going. 

During the next couple of days and on my various excursions around Delhi this pattern was repeated, very few women around, not in shops or restaurants, not on the streets unless less they were sweeping or begging. This was particularly prevalent in the middle of Delhi and away from the upscale areas. 

During my walk through Chandni Chowk Market and the spice market, you barely see any Indian women, again they are not working in the market, on the stalls, in the shops, the restaurants. 

When I moved to the hotel to start my Tour the area was extremely busy, lots of hotels, shops etc but again no women. 

My hotel was again staffed entirely by men. 

I went for a little walk from the hotel and got approached almost immediately. A man stating that he was from my hotel, asked where I was going? I said to look at the shops, he told me the shops weren’t open until later and asked a Tuk Tuk driver, who had been following me to take me to a ‘Shopping Market’ I agreed (stupidly) the Tuk Tuk cost very little so it didn’t seem a big deal. He took me to a bloody Tourist Market, full of people selling tourist tat, but high end and very expensive. Clearly this was a scam the driver and the other guy get kick backs to take you there. 

This sort of shit happened ALL the time, pretty much every time I walked anywhere alone. Frustrating and annoying but also potentially dangerous.

This was my experience throughout my stay, being hassled and approached continuously. For the younger women in our group things were even worse. 

Whilst I didn’t always feel particularly threatened, it is disturbing and a constant source of irritation. 

I did however feel unsafe and vulnerable during my stay at the last hotel in Delhi, again all male staff, all male guests a few of whom were drunk, the staff were not very welcoming or helpful. I felt the need to barricade my door with a huge wooden table and my suitcase. Not good. 

Everywhere I went, in Delhi, Jaipur, Agra, Alipura, the cities and also in the villages women are very scarce. 

On our village walks, we saw some women, mainly in their homes, or doing chores, making dung patties, making cigarettes, minding children but they were in the background. It was the men on the streets, sitting outside the cafes chatting playing cards, the children we met were a mix of boys and girls but older girls and women were hard to find. 

We did encounter a few more women in Varanasi, this was because they were traveling as families for the Shiva Festival or from the Kumbh Mela Festival. 

But In the back streets it was the same, very few women. 

It’s strange because once you become aware of it, it starts to be so obvious. 

India still has a big problem with sexual violence, domestic violence and rape, particularly in the more rural areas. Women continue to be the victims of these crimes on an alarming scale. 

Vikram, our group leader was a wonderful guy who is rightly proud of his country and that came across when he spoke to us about the history, the culture, the religions and everything in between! 

Vikram explained that the caste system no longer prevents people from achieving their potential and that it is illegal to discriminate on the basis of caste. This is a huge positive step and highlights that things are certainly moving in the right direction. 

My thoughts are that things for people and more specifically women in the higher castes are improving, I’m not quite so sure this is the case for the lower castes and the women in poor and more rural communities. 

Vikram talked about his experience of women in his family and social circle who have well paid, high profile, high status roles. However these women are from wealthy, high status families, they have had access to education and opportunities that others do not. The gap between the rich & the poor is huge, this gap widens considerably when you factor in Gender. 

I spent a month in India, during that time my interactions with Indian females was severely limited. 

I had 2 proper conversations with women, both of whom I met whilst traveling on planes, one on the way to Varanasi and one on my flight to Bangkok. I chatted to the young girl who took us in our City Walk in Delhi, Kajahl. That was it. 

As I’ve said I think India has a way to go in terms of Gender Equality, it takes more than Government policies and Laws, it needs a shift in attitudes and most importantly access to education for all young people particularly Girls. 

Although I found things difficult at times and attitudes towards women challenging. I also feel hopeful that things are changing, attitudes are improving and women are starting to make their voices heard. 

The current President of India is a women, Droupadi Murmu. Her family were farmers. Droupadi Murmu has spent her life trying to empower the downtrodden and more marginalised sections of society. 

Whilst on my tour I was lucky enough to visit 3 different projects devoted to improving the life of women and children, in the cities and in rural communities, supporting their access to education, employment and  financial independence. 

  • The Salaam Balkan Trust. Who help and support street children in Delhi.
  • Anoothi Block Printing Project. Supporting women from marginalised communities. 
  • TARAgram. A project supporting tribal women making paper items from recycled clothing. 
  • Women with Wheels. Offering livelihoods to women in a sector usually denied to women. They operate in Delhi & Jaipur. 

There are many more projects operating throughout India. G Adventures who I did my tour with have a charitable arm called Planeterra who support all of these projects. 

I think it’s important to acknowledge that India is not alone in its attitudes towards women and women’s rights. It was more visible and obvious but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s worse than other countries

You only have to look at the current situation in America to see that the rights that women have fought so incredibly hard for over the last century are under attack.

No country has managed to achieve Gender Equality, not one! 

The Patriarchy is alive and well. 

We need to continue to fight and advocate for women’s equality in Social, economic and political terms. 

Everyone should be treated with respect and dignity, everyone should be treated equally, fairly and with equal and equitable access to resources regardless of their race, religion, gender or sexuality. 

If we continue to build society’s that fight for the opposite of this, then we all lose. 

Reflections on India. Part 1. 

I have to be honest I didn’t really have many preconceived ideas about India prior to my visit. 

I knew that it was probably a sensible idea to do an organised tour, that traveling in India as a solo female wasn’t the best idea, even for an ‘older’ female (god, it pains me to have to write that! 😳😀) I knew that Delhi was quite polluted, but I hadn’t done much reading about the country, which is unusual for me. I put this down to the fact that I was doing an organised tour so felt a little less inclined to do as much research, I had some helpful tips from a friends daughter, which came in very handy. 

Nearly everyone I spoke to that had visited only had positive things to say about India, many saying it was one of their favourite places. 

My initial impression of India and of Delhi weren’t that bad, the traffic was bonkers, but that’s nothing new to me, the hotel I stayed in was very pleasant and my first few outings were also not too bad. 

I was in Delhi at a time of year that usually sees less pollution, so although it was polluted it didn’t seem quite as bad as I’d expected. 

The previous few months are when crops are being burnt and pollution is horrendous. 

You do notice the rubbish almost immediately, as it’s everywhere. 

At this point I think I need to acknowledge that at the beginning I was pretty sheltered from the ‘real’ Delhi experience. My hotel was in a very upscale residential area called ‘Defence Colony’ this is in a part of New Delhi with wide tree lined streets. It was built in the 1960s  for veterans of India’s Armed Forces. It is now home to people from the entertainment and political sector. It has art galleries, coffee shops & parks also slightly less rubbish! 

I had found the hotel on a list of the best places to stay in Delhi by The Sunday Telegraph. (It was the cheapest one they recommended 😀)

The other guests at the hotel were predominantly British, my age or older, retired and not traveling on a budget! They were doing organised tours but with more upscale organisations than G Adventures, who I used. This is not a criticism at all, but I feel it’s important to note. 

In these first few days I did a couple of tours, but I did them with a male guide and driver, organised by the hotel. This makes a big difference. It meant that when we were walking through the area around Chandni Chowk for example, it felt exciting not intimidating or scary. 

Things changed somewhat when I moved to the first Tour hotel further into Delhi and away from the relative luxury of ‘Defence Colony’ 

The hotel I arrived at felt like a massive drop in standards! 

It was on a busy and insanely noisy, dirty street, men were everywhere, no women in sight. All the staff in the hotel were men. I think it was here that I started to note the distinct lack of females on the streets or in the hotels, shops etc. 

There are so many things to say and reflect on from my time in India so it might be easier if I try to break it down a little.

I’ve got so used to writing things chronologically that it seems that’s what I’ve started to do again! 

Firstly, I think I’d like to reflect on India’s pollution and how dirty it is. 

Unless you have been there it is difficult to convey exactly how filthy, rundown and polluted the country is. 

I spent my whole time in India travelling around the north, in the areas of Rajasthan, Utter Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh and Haryana. All of these state’s feature in the top 10 most polluted areas of India. With Delhi being the most polluted city. 

The air Quality Index, AQI states that readings of 50 or below represents good air quality. 

51 – 100 represents moderate air quality. 

101 – 150  represents unhealthy air quality for sensitive people. 

150 – 200 then represents unhealthy. 

200 – 300 represents very unhealthy. 

Anything over 300 represents hazardous air quality. 

Delhi rarely gets below 100, and in November 2024 it reached an AQI of 491! 

During my time there in February it was an average of 121. Which to be honest is still not great. Today’s, (17.03.25) AQI is 162

The pollution is caused by a variety of factors. 

  1. Diesel & Petrol
  2. Crop burning
  3. Open waste burning
  4. Industrial emissions 
  5. Construction dust.

This is obviously worse during the period of crop burning, which happens more frequently as farmers rush to burn off rice residue in order to plant the next cash crop, wheat. Although this practice is deemed illegal it continues on a huge scale. The areas of Punjab, Haryana & Utter Pradesh are the main sources of this pollution. 

The traffic in India is insane especially in the cities. Freight is transported mainly by road, so lots of large, old trucks driving through the country. so it’s clear to see where that pollution comes from. 

The areas surrounding Delhi are rapidly expanding, building is never ending, roads, apartments, shopping areas the list goes on, with a growing economy and a growing population this is not going to end any time soon.

The current population stands at 1.438 Billion this is nearly 18% of the world’s population. 

Open waste burning is something you see everywhere on a small scale, but then you see the huge waste mountains looming above you just outside Delhi, burning waste on a scale that is unbelievable. 

Plastic waste and rubbish is everywhere, on every street, by every road, in every body of water. It is like nothing I have ever seen before. In some cases you can see that it is several feet deep beside a road or beside a village. It is so prevalent that I think if you spent a lot of time in India you would start to not see it, or become immune to it.

It is estimated that air pollution shortens the average Indians life expectancy by between 2 – 5.3 years. 

Tracey sent me a really interesting article/Ted Talk given by an Indian organisation called ‘The Ugly Indian’. 

The talk centred on the issue of rubbish and filth on the streets of India, why it happens and why nothing gets done. The speaker acknowledged that some of it is due to the Indian mindset and he also referred to a couple of theories. 

One from Criminology: ‘The Broken Window Theory’ This theory posits that visible signs of disorder and misbehaviour in an environment encourage further disorder, leading to serious crime. If your Neighborhood is filthy and covered in rubbish, this encourages further littering and disregard for the area. 

The other theory is an economic one called ‘The Tragedy of the Commons.’ This describes a situation where shared environmental resources are overused and exploited, and eventually depleted posing risks to everyone. This theory can be used on a global scale to explain Climate Change and on a smaller scale to explain deteriorating neighbourhoods and littering. 

The Ugly Indian have various ways of tackling this issue on a smaller scale, they do this without judgement and with the involvement of local people. 

For example: Taking an area beside a housing development and outside a Wine shop. The area is used by lots of men, they then piss everywhere, spit Paan/Gutka residue everywhere (Paan/Gutka is a chewing leaf, which then creates saliva which is brown and gets spat everywhere) Rubbish is everywhere, the area is filthy and unpleasant. The Ugly Indian then clean the area, provide sanitary urinals, waste collection, seating and pleasant walkways. The area then looks attractive therefore people are less likely to abuse it. 

They did the same thing to a filthy stinking underpass. The underpass was so revolting that people refused to use it, instead risking their lives crossing a very busy road. Once the underpass was cleaned, painted and made good, people started using it, seeing the benefit 

to themselves they also then kept it clean and well maintained. 

These examples were in Bangalore, but they have projects across India.

These are great ideas, and the projects are definitely having an impact on a small scale. I’m unsure how this will work on a country wide scale. Especially as it appears not to be a priority for the government. I certainly didn’t see anything like this is on my travels. 

What I did see often was people sweeping their shop steps clean, and simply sweeping the rubbish into the road, where it then becomes someone else’s problem. 

I saw people sweeping the streets, but again just sweeping things into a large pile, which then sits there. 

There are very few Waste bins in public spaces. People just throw the rubbish into the street. 

The situation seems to be the same even in the rural areas that I visited, the small villages we walked through were also littered with rubbish, much of it plastic. Plastic waste is a whole other issue, its effect on the environment both in India and globally. 

I only traveled through a small section of India, it may be that things are better in other areas, I really hope so.

The Indian Government have introduced various initiatives over the years:

  1. Swachh Bharat Mission (SBM) focuses on Reduce, Reuse, Recycle. 
  2. Waste to Wealth Mission. To promote and encourage innovative technology solutions to waste management and achieve a zero landfill and zero waste nation. 
  3. Lots of other projects and initiatives to encourage community participation and move towards sustainability in waste management and recycling. 

I was lucky enough to see the wonder that is The Taj Mahal in all its stunning glory. Sometimes, however, it is impossible to see it through the fog of pollution. That’s tragic. 

I have travelled through many countries and seen rubbish and pollution but truly not on the same scale as India. It is something that stays with you. 

This is incredibly sad as the country is beautiful, but sometimes that beauty is buried under a layer of dust, pollution and rubbish.

Unless there is a major shift in mindset and a greater commitment from Government I fear that the state of public spaces in India and the high levels of pollution will continue to get worse. 

Screenshot

Saturday 8th March – Friday 14th March 2025

My journey to Bangkok was pretty uneventful, thank god!

Check in and my flight with Air India were great. I was too tired to do anything much at the airport, I simply sat with my book and a last cup of Masala Chai! 

The flight was busy but it left on time and arrived a little early!

It was so lovely to arrive into Bangkok, clean, calm and lots of smiling faces. 

Immigration was a doddle, my case was one of the first to arrive, I found my hotel shuttle easily and after a short wait I was whisked off to a large, modern, clean hotel manned by lots of smiling people including women! Absolute bliss. The first thing I did was have a much needed long hot shower! 

One of the lovely ladies from my Indian tour, Negiz,  had been in touch and said that she would also be staying at an airport hotel in Bangkok today, handily it was just down the road, so she came to the hotel. Negiz is flying back to Belgium tomorrow, It was so nice to see a familiar face and have a good catch up and offload a little about our experiences in India. 

After Negiz left I grabbed some Vegetable rice then went to bed in my massive, soft, clean, comfy, quiet room. 😍

I have booked a bus/coach to take me to Hua Hin. The coaches are very nice and the journey only takes around 3 hours. I got the shuttle back to the airport and after grabbing some snacks and water I boarded my coach. 

I arrived in Hua Hin at a different bus station, this one a little further out of town. I figured I’d just get a Grab (Thai Uber) but the station provided a very cheap shuttle service, handy!

I am staying back at the same complex in the same apartment as I had back in August 2024. The lady I dealt with then has given me a good deal. It’s also nice to be somewhere familiar. 

I grab the keys from the lock box then Kate messages me and comes to say Hi at the apartment, with a little gift! 🎁🥰❤️ So kind. 

The first thing I do is unpack my case! I haven’t unpacked it since leaving Australia on January 13th! I also desperately need to do some laundry. Before I can do any washing I need to visit a 7 Eleven. Luckily for me there is one just up the road!

I get some washing powder and some vanish, bread, water, beer, Crinkle Cut Lays! All the holiday essentials! 😂

Washing on, case unpacked, wifi sorted. I am ready to relax and chill! 

I have arrived on a Sunday, which is handy as there is a food market next door that runs Thursday- Sunday every week. This means I can grab a tasty cheap dinner and a beer! Which I do, a big plate of veggie rice and a Singha beer for around £2.50. I also purchase a tub of the most delicious caramel  cashew nuts! So yummy. 😋 

I have a good nights sleep, I don’t wake up until 10ish, which is unheard of! I feel like I needed it.

I have no real agenda or plan for my time here, I just want to rest and have some downtime. 

The complex is busier than when I was here last but still not mad busy, there is always a place to sit by the pool, especially for me as I like to be in the shade! The pool is big and great for me to get back into my swimming. I haven’t swam consistently since I broke my ribs back in November 24. 

I’ve spent the last few days just settling in, finding my way around again, checking out my previous hangouts. I’ve been into town for some shopping, food, I also bought myself a dress. When I unpacked my case I realised that I’d given Tracey most of my summer dresses to take back to England 🤦‍♀️ I bought a fab, blue cotton dress with pockets for £15! Bargain. 

I’ve had one or two small battles since I arrived. The first is ongoing and is with TourRadar and Fragrance of Taj about my Tiger Safari, I’ll keep you posted.

The second is with Lloyds TSB. I tried to pay for my accommodation here by bank transfer. Unfortunately the last hurdle to the convoluted process is a phone call to me from the bank to give me a security code. I had made sure I switched my phone sim to my UK one, but it kept saying they couldn’t get through. 

I asked Rebecca to call and she was able to get through, so that was odd. 

I tried again the next day, switching sims well in advance. Again not able to get through. This then meant I had to call Lloyds, an international call to a bloody bank in the UK is not going to be cheap. 😳

I get through and tell the automated voice that I need international banking help. They put me through to someone who can’t help! Ffs. They transfer me to another person, who trys to help but then tells me I need more information regarding the recipients details (this wasn’t requested online! ) I have to hang up, get the required information and call again! This time I speak to someone a little more helpful, she informs me that I have a note on my file saying do not call! WTAF, where has that come from, I did not set it up. She changes things, sets up the payment, which goes through! Hallelujah This has now taken me 45 minutes, I complain that the cost of this call to me is ridiculous, she then says would I like to complain, I say yes, this takes another 15 minutes, but the upshot is they refund me £60 to cover the cost of the call, and inform me that if I need to call again I can reverse the charges!! A satisfactory outcome I feel. 

Apart from that all I’ve been doing is enjoying the pool, walking along the beach and catching up on some reading. Heaven.

Have a wonderful weekend everyone. 

💚🩵🩷💜💛💙

Books Read

The Lost Victim. Robert Bryndzi. A good read. 

The House of Lost Secrets. Anstey Harris. A free Prime read, which was better than I’d anticipated. 

Saturday 1st March – Saturday 8th March 2025

I had booked myself into a different hotel for the 2 nights before my Tiger Safari starts. I did this when I’d first arrived at the Tour Hotel, which I didn’t like at the time but to be fair I was given a different room on our return, which was better and at least I knew the area, but the new place was non refundable. So I guess I’ll have to go.

Before leaving I had a walk around the area, I wanted to get a few little bits and use the ATM and I knew where the shops etc were from walking to restaurants with the group. 

Unfortunately it’s a whole different ball game when you are on your own. Initially things were ok, a few Tuk Tuk drivers asking if I needed a lift. Then it got a little more pushy, one particular guy insisting he knew where my hotel was and that I was walking in the wrong direction, he may well have known, but I also knew where my hotel was and I knew that I was walking there a different way! I explained this calmly numerous times, he wouldn’t stop, and started to get a bit loud and pushy eventually a very nice Sikh gentleman told him to leave me alone. 

I found a shop selling spices and bought some black cardamom needed to make Masala Chia, I also got some ready mixed Masala Chia powder. I adore the Masala Chia here, it’s delicious! 😋 

I would have liked to stop for a cold drink, but there just isn’t anywhere, apart from a few random places, which are chock full of men.  

I went back to the hotel and gathered my stuff then got a Taxi to my new abode! 

The new hotel isn’t in a great area, it’s down near the train station but the hotel itself is nice. 

I have finally succumbed to the cold that has plagued everyone on the tour, so I’m snotty and have a sore throat. I decide not to do too much for the rest of the day I just grab a cup of masala chai in Café near the hotel, so they do exist in some places in Delhi!

I eat dinner in the hotel which was pleasant then went to bed.

I’m still feeling under the weather but have a plan to visit an area called Connaught Place. It’s in New Delhi and it has nice buildings with apparently some good shops and an M & S! I thought a wander around somewhere nice and having a nice lunch might cheer me up! It doesn’t. Although this area does have some branded shops it’s still Delhi and I get hassled constantly by guys asking where I’m going, telling me I’m going the wrong way, how they can determine this I have no idea 🤷‍♀️ Asking where I’m from, would I like to visit some random market, would I like to see their uncles shop, can they get a picture. 🤯 I’m a little bit over it all tbh. 

I eventually find a decent cafe, grab a well needed Lemon, ginger, honey tea and take a breather. I decide to go out again and give it another try, I know there is a pharmacy somewhere nearby and I need some vitamin C. But once again I get hassled straight away. I give up and grab a Tuk Tuk and after much discussion and showing the driver the hotel name and address in English and Hindi he says he’s good. Only he isn’t really and I end up using my google maps to direct him, he then tried to charge me more than agreed, irritating! 

I find a pharmacy near the hotel, grab the vitamin C and return to the calm of my hotel room. ☺️

I have dinner in the hotel again and prepare for an earlyish pick up in the morning to go on my Tiger Tour. 

I booked this Tiger Tour back in November, booked and paid I might add. 

I booked through a company called TourRadar, whom I’ve used before and they have been great. The Tour was outsourced to a company Called Fragrance of Taj. They had messaged me a couple of times, but over the last few weeks have been very poor at returning messages or providing the information I have asked for, things like timings, what to expect, etc. 

still, they had good online reviews so I was hopeful that all would be well.

The driver, Shubha arrived on time, so a good start. The car was nice and comfortable. Off we went. It’s supposed to be a 5 hour drive to Jim Corbett National Park from Delhi. But it took us 61/2! 😳

The car is a semi hybrid which clearly has the tank capacity of a moped, as we stopped 3 times for fuel! On 2 of these occasions it took nearly 1/2 an hour to get the fuel, then Shubha said he needed to stop for a rest, then we had a loo break, then more fuel! By which time I was tired, snotty, thirsty and hungry. 

We arrived at the hotel around 4pm, I grabbed a Masala Chai which thankfully came with biscuits 🍪😍 Then had a mooch around. 

The hotel is very nice, quiet, clean with a restaurant and even a lovely looking pool. 

By this point I had messaged with Sanjeev from Fragrance of Taj numerous times asking about timings for the Safari the next day. I then called him, he said he would send the information to me, he didn’t. 

I eventually got a brief message about being ready at 5am and that my driver would explain everything.

I went and found Shubha, I asked him what was happening. I had received 2 QR codes for Safaris, one for the morning, one for the afternoon.  Now, bearing in mind I speak no Hindi and Shubha’s  English is ok but not great and Sanjeev was less than forthcoming,  I was finally told that we would leave the hotel at 5.15am. I would do a morning Safari, come back to the hotel by 9ish have breakfast and relax then go out again around lunchtime and do an afternoon safari. This sounded great. 

I duly set my alarm and got up at the crack of sodding dawn, got ready and made my way to reception at 5.10. The hotel and reception were in darkness with nobody around. I waited 5 minutes, then a security guy came along, I called Shubha, he said he would be 5 minutes, nearly 15 minutes later he appeared, now I’m a tad pissed off.  

We get in the car, he then drives like a loon to the safari pick up point. When we arrive, he clearly has no clue what’s happening. He speaks to a couple of people, they’re also not completely sure what’s occurring with my tickets. Eventually someone comes over and explains that I will be doing a morning safari, in a Cantor (a big bus not a jeep) this will start when the bus reaches the gate, some 30 mins away and then finish around 4hrs later. I will then have to wait and do my afternoon safari on another cantor. I won’t be coming back to the hotel for breakfast I will now be out all day!!  WTF. I am not impressed. 

I have come out with a small bottle of water and no food, expecting to be back at the hotel in around 3 – 4 hours! Shubha says no worries there will be water and food. 

My seat on the bus is in the aisle, at the back. It’s cold, I have a wrap and a scarf but it’s still chilly. All the other passengers look set for winter! Sensible. 

The bus is not great, not bad, but not ideal. The guide, who isn’t really a guide, only speaks Hindi. 

We arrive at the gate, load up more passengers and go into the park. 

The park is huge, but the Cantor buses can only use 1 road, due to their size. We travel along the road, through jungle and across lots of big dry river beds, which in Monsoon season would be raging rivers. The sun is starting to come up, but it’s still cold, my feet and legs by this point are freezing 🥶 We spot a few deer and I see my first wild boar. 

There is one other western guy sitting at the front, Ramos from Switzerland, who is very nice. The driver tells me I can sit next to him, this enables me to have a better view. We travel through the park for approximately 2 1/2 hours then arrive at a station/post/ habitat thing where we stop for 30 minutes, there is a place selling tea so I grab a chai, use the rather unpleasant loo then get back on the bus. 

The bus then travels back along the same route, with a slight detour to go closer to the river briefly. 

There isn’t an awful lot of wildlife visible, very few birds, just a few more deer. 

We then arrive back at the gate at around 11.30. I’m hoping I can grab some snacks and more water. No snacks! Ramos takes pity and gives me a small packet of his biscuits. I then hang around and wait for an hour for the next Safari, which is going to be exactly the same as the first, the same route, the same sort of bus just different passengers. I debate giving it a miss, but figure I’m here and I might just see a Tiger! 

The next Safari begins, I’m at the back, but luckily not in the aisle, this bus has a few children, they aren’t thrilled to be sitting on a cold bus for hours 😳😬 and make this known quite vocally! 

We trundle back the same way, seeing the same things, I am trying to be positive and hopeful that we’ll see something amazing, we don’t. 

We have a break and return the same way, again with a short detour where we see some fish eagles. 

Just as we are crossing the last dry river bed 5 minutes before the tour ends, the woman in front of me shouts ‘Tiger’ I’m trying to see where she is pointing,  but everyone has jumped up and are also trying to see, there is a lot of noise and commotion, I’m  desperately trying to see where she is pointing, but then the moment is gone, the Tiger has disappeared back into the jungle and that’s it!! Done. 

We drive back to the town where I picked up the bus, I’m offloaded and it’s all over. 

I’m cold, tired, hungry, thirsty, dirty, dusty and a tad pissed off. 

This wasn’t the experience I had booked and paid for. 

I feel that Sanjeev has messed up the booking or forgotten about it till the last minute then cobbled something together. The driver confirms he was booked only a few days ago as was the hotel. 

There was supposed to be a trip to a museum and waterfalls, lunch, breakfast a Jeep Safari. I got none of this. I feel very frustrated and cross. I have emailed TourRadar I also sent Sanjeev a message, he’s very apologetic but is blaming the park authorities for the mistakes, which is bullshit. 

I have some food, a cup of tea a hot shower and go to bed. 😩

I wake up having had a decent nights sleep. I had confirmed with Shubha the night before that we would leave at 8.15 to go back to Delhi. 

I get a Good Morning message from Shubha at 6.30, I reply. 

I get up pack my stuff, grab a cup of Chai then go the front of the hotel at 8.15. No Shubha, I wait 5 minutes, send a message, he messages me back ‘Wait 5 minutes’ Really? Again? 

He pitches up 15 minutes later. No apology, no hello, in fact nothing, total silence. I feel an overwhelming urge to throat punch him!! I don’t, obviously, although it would have made me feel better. 😂

We drive back to Delhi in silence, he drives alternately like Lewis Hamilton then like a 90 year old blind person without an accelerator 😱🫣🙄🤦‍♀️ 

It’s safe to say The Tiger Tour has not been quite the experience I had hoped for!! 

I relax when I get back to the oasis of calm that is The Colonels Retreat Hotel. It’s so lovely, it’s where I stayed on my arrival in India. 

I make my way to the shady, flower filled rooftop, the guys bring me a delicious pot of Masala Chai and some homemade banana loaf and peace returns. ☺️

I spend the rest of the afternoon catching up on my blog, checking emails, organising onward travel plans and then have a very tasty dinner and sleep. 💤 

After a delicious breakfast back on the rooftop I am going to be heading to my next and final hotel here in India. I am spending it at an airport hotel, not ideal but practical for my morning flight, I don’t want to be battling through Delhi traffic in the early hours, that would be too stressful. 

I grab a taxi and make my way to Areocity and my last Delhi hotel. 

What can I say, the place is a complete shit hole. It bears absolutely no resemblance to the photos online, the room is not great, the nice restaurant does not exist at all instead they show me an eating place in the basement that is rank, dirty, smelly and full of flies! I am beyond pissed off. The guy at reception keeps asking me for payment, I’m not giving him shit. I confront him and ask why the hotel is nothing like the the hotel advertising, he can’t answer. Then more men appear from somewhere, all just standing around listening to me get more irate. Then some big bloke appears, he seems to be the owner, again I ask what the hell is going on, he says there is a restaurant, I explain that I wouldn’t call that a restaurant and it is nothing like the picture on their booking.com site, he says that the restaurant is in a different hotel, not really very fucking helpful. We have an ongoing argument, then he agrees to move me to another hotel, which he promises has a restaurant. (Tbh,mits nothing to do with the restaurant, it’s the fact they have outright lied!) By now there is myself and about 6 men all crowded into the small reception area, a tad intimidating. 

I go back to the room get my stuff and try to find an alternative hotel, but short of paying £150 for a Holiday Inn or a Radisson, the rest are much the same. I go to the owners new hotel, it’s probably worse, if that’s possible. I agree to stay, then take myself off for a short stroll along the chock a block 3 lane highway that’s directly in front of the hotel, no path. I find a big Radisson Blu Hotel 5 minutes away and shelter there for the rest of the afternoon/evening before returning to my hovel, barricade the door and try to sleep. I don’t sleep, too much noise, men shouting, lots of people going past my room! 

I’m up and left by 5am. I’m happy to be at the airport and on my way to Thailand. 

A rather unfortunate and unpleasant end to my time in India. ☹️

I will need some time to absorb and reflect on all of my experiences of India. It is a country like no other I’ve visited. 

Apologies for the miserable tone of this blog! But it’s not always sunshine and samosa’s! 

I will leave it there. 

Next stop Thailand. 🇹🇭 

Have a great week. 

🩷💜❤️💚🧡

Books read.

The Great Alone. Kristin Hannah. Other great story from this author. I really enjoyed her books. 

The Midnight Hour. Eve Chase.  A reasonable read, nothing remarkable. 

Wednesday 26th – Saturday 1st March 2025

Our flight arrived in Varanasi at around 1pm. The airport seemed quieter than I’d expected. 

This didn’t last once we left. The road into Varanasi was absolutely chocker! Cars, trucks, bikes, coaches, minibuses, pickup beds full of people. The 45 minute journey took over 2 hours. Luckily for us our hotel was in the newer part of Varanasi, so not quite as busy. 

We just had time to drop off our luggage then we all climbed aboard a series of Tuk Tuks and started to make our way into the old part of Varanasi and the river Ganges for an evening boat trip. 

I thought the traffic in Delhi was bad, this was on another level. So many people, Shiva Processions with horses, followers, dancing, statues plus all the usual chaos. The roads by the Ganges are closed to vehicles so we walked the last bit, It is crazy busy and so loud! 

Then there we were, on the banks of the holiest of rivers, at sunset, during a significant holy festival. It was beyond belief. 

We boarded our boat, I managed to do this across a wobbly platform and mud without injury! Impressive. 🥰

We set off down the river, watching all the madness on shore. 

Varanasi has a series of 88 Ghats, Ghats are riverfront steps leading from the city down to the river.  Some are more popular or more important than others. Dashashwamedh Ghat is very important as it’s close to the Shiva Temple, Vishwanath. 

The Ganges was misty and atmospheric, so many boats and people on the Ghats or bathing in the river purifying themselves, floral offerings were floating on the river, the sun was setting, on the other side there were more people, tents and camels. It felt like we had stepped back in time. 

So much to see and absorb. I have never seen or been anywhere quite like it. The atmosphere was incredible, you could feel the festival, celebratory vibe in the air. 

On Dashashwamedh Ghat and some of the other Ghats there are lots of Naga Sadhus, or holy men. These men have given up all material processions and devote themselves to spiritual enlightenment. They have travelled from all over an India and particularly Nepal to attend the Kumbh Mela and then on to Varanasi for the Maha Shivaratri Festival

Some of these Sudhus are naked and covered in ash from the funeral pyres. People are desperate to take blessings from these holy men and they are treated with utmost respect. 

Our boat took us past Manikarnika Ghat. This is one of the cities oldest and holiest Ghats and is the scared spot for Hindu Cremation. 

The cremations take place outside on the Ghat using wood and a flame taken from the eternal flame said to have been burning there for thousands of years. 

It’s very difficult to convey the sights, sounds and smells of Varanasi and the Ganges. It is an assault on all of your senses but not unpleasant just slightly overwhelming. I felt quite emotional. 

We made our way back to shore and walked through the throngs of people to our Tuk Tuks and a much needed late dinner! 

The following day we had some free time. There was an optional tour to a Buddhist Temple, but to be honest I was feeling all templed out! 

I had been looking forward to a nice lie in however the 100s of sodding mosquitoes in my room put paid to that! 🦟 Fuckers. 

I’ve had not bites in India, now I have around 20, also some on my face! Fun. 

Vikram had pointed out a very old hotel near Dashashwamedh Ghat, right in the thick of everything. He said it was a very nice hotel, so my plan was to go there, sit on the terrace and watch everything going on, have some peace and quiet, people watch and chill. 

Lovely Hannah from the tour said she would like to join me, which was great. Vikram explained that we might need to walk a little way due to roads still being shut, which was fine. 

After leaving the Tuk Tuk, we grabbed a rickshaw operated by a little old fella, who insisted we get on his particular rickshaw! 

He took us through some back roads, which were still really busy, and then dropped us off by a very busy roundabout. 

The Maha Shivratri Festival was still in full swing, there had been a procession early in the morning with a Shiva Statue taken from the Temple. People were queuing to visit the temple, the queue was over 2 kilometres long 😳 People were leaving, people were arriving, people were everywhere and  in amongst all of this were Hannah & myself trying to find our way to this bloody hotel! 

Luckily Hannah’s google maps was good, and she could read it well, so we made our way in a zig zag through the throng in all the tiny little windy streets, it was amazing. Although it was away from some of the crowds it was still busy with the local people just going about their lives. After a while we made it to the hotel. We took the lift up and were then asked to wait in reception, as we weren’t residents or have a table booked. 

We could see the outside terrace with its fabulous view, then the manager came and explained that we could come into the restaurant for lunch, but there would be a 2100 rupee surcharge (approximately £21) plus our meal. The restaurant was inside with no views, the prices were very high, so although we were gasping for a drink and a sit down we decided to leave. We asked if there were any other restaurants/cafes nearby, which the rather surly staff didn’t seem to know. They told us to take the lift down and walk along the Ghat and see if we could find anything! Helpful..not.

We duly took the lift and then found ourselves right in the thick of all the goings on! People, priests, Sudhus (naked & clothed) dogs, children, bathers, everyone, everywhere all at once! It was crazy! 🤯

We were also being hassled quite badly for photographs and selfies particularly by men and especially Hannah who is Tall, young, blonde and beautiful. It gets very annoying very quickly. 

We couldn’t find anywhere to go, so went back to the hotel to ask if they could organise a Tuk Tuk or rickshaw. They couldn’t. A nice guy explained that we should go back down walk along past 3 or 4 Ghats then head back into the Melee. 😳😬😳

We did at least get a couple of minutes on the terrace! 

Off we went back into it, and boy it was crazy! We were walking along the busiest most important Ghats. 

I got patted on the head with some peacock feathers by a naked Sudhu which I’m taking to be a blessing! 🥰

We walked back through the madness for ages and eventually came to a road with Tuk Tuks, jumped in and asked to go to the shopping mall near our hotel. 

After an hour of him battling the insane traffic we made it to the Mall, and much to Hannah’s joy a MacDonalds! 😂😍 We also bumped into several of our tour buddies in Maccy Ds. 

I opted for a coke and fries. Then Negiz said that there was supposed to be a nice coffee place nearby so we walked there. 

Oh my god! It was lush, in a lovely hotel, gorgeous gardens, quiet and peaceful! Why hadn’t I just come here this morning? 😂

To be honest I wouldn’t have missed our completely immersive Varanasi experience for anything. It was hot, dusty, smelly, mad, chaotic, colourful, vibrant, loud and totally amazing. 🤩🧡💚❤️💙💜🩷

Having said that it was such a joy to sit in the garden with a cold drink and catch up on writing my blog and relax. 

We had dinner that night in a really nice restaurant, unfortunately they forgot my order so I ended up eating last, but it was the most yummy Adraki Aloo Gobi, I’ve had so far. 😋😋

We were up and out at silly o clock again the next morning, 5am! 

I managed to get a little more sleep, having killed most of the Mosquitoes in my room and by sleeping completely inside the duvet cover. 

We were heading back to the Ganges for a sunrise boat trip. 

Lovely Vikram had organised for a sitar player and a drummer to join us and play some beautiful music while we drifted along the Ganges watching the sunrise. He also bought us all a flower offerings to set afloat on the water with a prayer. 

I found this all very emotional and moving. Seeing the flowers and the flames carrying our thoughts, wishes and prayers along the Ganges was something very special. 

We came back to shore at the Cremation Ghat, Manaharinkia Ghat. The largest and most auspicious Ghat.  It was very busy and also very muddy. I was a genuinely concerned about ending up in the mud like I had done in the Killing Fields, luckily I didn’t. 

Here we met our guide, who was going to take us on a Heritage Walk through Old Varanasi. I was looking forward to it, even though I feel Hannah and I had already done a pretty comprehensive walk the day before. 😀

Our walk started beside the Crematorium. Where we learnt about the Hindu rituals around death and cremation. 

This crematorium Ghat is very sacred and many people wish to be burnt here, many old people also want to come to Varanasi to die. 

The crematorium runs constantly, and is particularly busy at night. 

The families brink their deceased relative down to the Ghat, they then immerse them in the holy water of the Ganges to purify them. The bodies are wrapped in cloth and treated with oils and herbs, and then covered in Ghee. This means that there is no unpleasant smell. A funeral pyre is built using wood from the Himalayas the body is placed on the pyre and a flame lit, from the eternal flame created by Shiva, this is done by the eldest son or male family member. Females are not allowed to take part in the cremation ritual. 

The cremation takes between 3 -4 hours. Once the body is burnt the ashes are then scattered into the Ganges thereby salvation is achieved. 

Our guide took us right up onto the cremation platform, we arrived just as a body was beginning to burn, and others were now reduced to ash. We were standing feet away from the cremation site and walked inches away from the ash filled pits. I found it incredibly confronting and difficult. Our guide asked if we wanted to stay in that spot while he explained everything and I said No, please could we leave and do it elsewhere. I wasn’t comfortable being there, I felt we were intruding on the families grief and ceremony. It was uncomfortable and upsetting. 

I was also aware that there was a lot of ash and smoke in the air that we were breathing in. 

We left. 

I have since asked Vikram how the family would feel about us being there, he seemed to think it was ok, I’m not so sure. 

All of us were pleased to move away. 

I am aware that I am bringing my own cultural sensitivities to this situation, but nevertheless it was difficult. 

At another Cremation Ghat further down the river, we had witnessed tourists, knelt down right next to bodies taking pictures, which is completely disrespectful. 

Once we all composed ourselves we continued on our walk. 

The winding old streets of Varanasi are filled with unexpected things, huge cows, temples, shops, priests, food stalls, dogs, bikes, mopeds, people, cow dung, rats, homes, shrines, cows in peoples homes, children, colourful doors, offerings. 😍

It is wonderful, it feels ancient and beautiful. 

We stopped at a food stall to try some Kachori-sabzi, crispy dumpling things with a spicy dal. I opted not to have one, but I did try some and it was very good! We also stopped at the best Lassi stall in Varanasi. The yogurt is made fresh and then the drink is mixed to order. I have never had a Lassi, it simply didn’t appeal. But I decided to give it a go and I have to say it was delicious 🤤. The Lassi is served in an earthen ware cup, which tradition states you have to break when finished. 

I really enjoyed the walk and seeing all the sites, even those that were difficult. Varanasi is a unique and special place and I feel very privileged to have been here and shared in such an important festival. 

It was our last night together as a group so we went to a nice restaurant and enjoyed a yummy meal. 

Our time together has gone by so quickly. I was very apprehensive about doing an organised tour, and I’m so pleased to say that I absolutely loved it. 

I think we were very lucky to have so many fabulous people in our group, everyone was kind, thoughtful and fun. We got on well, we laughed, we cried (well I did!) To meet so many strong, capable, independent, well traveled women was an inspiration. 

We were also blessed with the most wonderful guide, Vikram, he was fantastic. Knowledgeable, calm, organised and just lovely. 

I couldn’t imagine doing India on my own, I certainly wouldn’t have had as many fantastic experiences. I would recommend looking at the company I used, ‘G Adventures’ to any solo female traveler. 

We all landed back Delhi feeling a little subdued. Some of the group stayed on in the airport to get onward flights, most were leaving early the next day. Only Carol, Gill and myself were hanging around in Delhi.

We met for breakfast and then it was time for final goodbyes and I was back to being a solo traveler, having to organise myself and make my own decisions! 😟

I am still pretty behind with my blog, due to lack of wifi or time to write it! I intend to catch up in the next couple of days. 

Books read.

Current book not finished yet! 

Have a great day everyone.

Thinking of you all and missing you.

💚❤️🧡🩷💜🩵💙

Monday 24th – Wednesday 26th February 2025

After our utterly fabulous stay in Alipura, our next stop is a small place called Orchha, set on the banks of the Betwa River. It’s a short drive of around 90 mins, which is great as it means we don’t have to get up at the crack of Dawn! 😁

Just before reaching Orchha we have a stop at a paper making factory, another of the projects supported by G adventures helping local tribal women. 

The paper is made using recycled clothing and wood pulp. The process is very clever and the end result is lovely thick parchment like paper. 

We stayed in a smallish home stay/hotelin Orchha which was lovely. Some of the group did an optional cooking class and others, including myself opted to stay at the hotel and have a spa treatment! I had a fabulous reflexology massage on my rather dry and grubby feet! 😳😍

We were due to have a 2 night stay in Orchha but as we now have to fly to Varanasi we are only staying 1 night, this means a full day. After our treatments we were off out to walk through the town and visit Orchha Palace. Another beautiful Mughal building. After this we visited Vir Singh Deos Mausoleum and gardens, these were lovely, the gardens were particularly nice, very peaceful. The lovely gardener gave us all a red rose to put in our hair! 🌹❤️

From here we went down to the river to watch the sunset. The river was quite wide, fast flowing and busy! People bathing, washing clothes, picnicking, walking and relaxing. The sunset was pleasant, the smell not so much. 😬

We had a quick chance to freshen up before our evening visit to the large Ram Raja Temple for a ceremony. It was packed and pretty intense, but not too scary! All in all a full on day, but great. 

Orchha was an interesting and not too busy place, which I enjoyed visiting. 

We left early the next morning to head back to Khajuraho to fly to Varanasi.

We seem to always be arriving in places at the same time as lots of VIPs! 

The airport at Khajuraho is small but we were there at the same time as the President, Droupadi Murmu and the Chief Minister, Dr. Mohan Yadav, who we saw walking through the airport. (With a big security detail!) 

This meant that security was incredibly tight and took ages to go through, my carry on bag was searched, and I had to empty it as I had a small purse holding my keys in, which were metal and showed up on the scanner, which I had completely forgotten about! 

The President was apparently in the area to officiate at a huge mass wedding event. I think I’ve mentioned that it’s wedding season here in India at the moment and this mass wedding event is for people who can’t afford a big private wedding, so therefore they do a group one. It’s no doubt couples from the lowest caste, Shudras, which is the caste that the President herself came from. 

Our flight was great, on Indigo Air, on time, nice big comfy seats. Very nice. 

We arrived in Varanasi on 26th of February. This is also the last day of the Kumbh Mela festival. 

The Kumbh Mela Festival has attracted approximately 660 million visitors during its 6 weeks! This is an insane number of people! To put it into perspective that is nearly 10 x the population of the UK! 😳😳

Many of the people visiting the last days of Kumbh Mela were then making their way to Varanasi for the Mahashivratri Festival. This is a very important festival celebrating Lord Shivas celestial union with Goddess Parvati. The Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi is the epicentre of these celebrations.

I think I’m going to leave it there for now, as I feel that Varanasi deserves its own blog! 

Books Read.

The Wrong Hands. Mark Billingham. The 2nd Detective Miller Novel. I really enjoyed it. 

The Lost Past of Billy McQueen. Neil Alexander. An enjoyable read.

Have a great week everyone. 

💙🩷🩵❤️🧡💜💚