Tuesday 6th May – Sunday 11th May 2025

After a little bit of a bumpy but not unpleasant journey, we arrived in Nafpaktos. The town looks amazing, a big castle up on a hill and a really great small walled harbour. We tried to go into the harbour but it was very small and was having work done, it was really only big enough for small boats and dinghy’s. We decided to anchor just outside the harbour walls. The wind had dropped considerably and we decided to go into town by dinghy to do some shopping and have a look around.

Once again I mastered the dinghy! 🥰 To be fair it was really calm and not very far!

We did the shopping and had a mooch about, it’s a very pretty place. Tracey & Jacques opted to take the shopping back to the boat while I waited in a little bar! Handy. This plan seemed great until the wind picked up a lot just as they set off and meant they couldn’t come back for 2 hours! 😂 I managed to pass the time sipping my Mastika and Wine and eating the nibbles, it was hard but I survived! 😂

It was getting on for 8.30pm by the time they got back and we were all hungry and made the great decision to visit the best local Gyros shop, I even tried a pork Gyros, very tasty. 

Unfortunately the money we saved on a cheap supper was soon spent in a very nice wine shop we passed on the way back to the boat! 

We set off on a bright sunny morning to make our way to Missolonghi. Lord Byron died and is buried on Missolonghi. 

In order to get there we had to pass under a huge suspension bridge, The Rio-Antirrio Bridge. This required us to radio the bridge with our mast height then wait to be told which section to pass under, initially he misheard the height, luckily Tracey double checked and we went under the tallest section. Even then it’s a little nerve wracking! 

The way into the quay at Missolonghi was strange, we followed a dredged channel past some flat marshlands which didn’t look very Greek, apparently there are a lot of salt flats here. 

We went alongside the quay which with no wind was relatively stress free! 

Tracey and I then went for an epic walk through the town, at the hottest part of the day, in search of Lidl! Honestly, we’ll do anything for a decent supermarket! 😂 

It was actually a rather pleasant walk through the town despite pulling an old lady shopping trolley with us! 

Lidl was fun, although we opted for a taxi back with our hoard. 

We were moored opposite a busy, buzzing restaurant where we had a very nice dinner and watched the sunset. 

Our next stop is the lovely island of Ithaka, which is just off the coast of Kefalonia. The architecture is lovely and relatively modern, after most properties were damaged during an earthquake in 1953. We moored along the town quay, which was great, I love a Town Quay! 

The little town looks so pretty and also looks a little bit Italian. 

We had a wander around the town and then had food onboard. Another epic Greek Salad 🥗😍

There is a beautiful poem called ‘Ithaka’ by the Greek poet P Cavafy. It is based on Odysseus journey home in Homer’s Odyssey. The poem conveys the meaning of life and to always remember that when attempting to achieve our goals we must never lose sight of the journey as it’s is this journey that provides us with wisdom, knowledge and experience. Thank you Grantley for telling me about the poem. 

We were hoping to make a stop on Kefalonia at a place called Fiskardo. 

Unfortunately the small quay was completely full, so instead we popped across to a place called Syvota on the island of Lefkas. 

There are lots of pontoons in Syvota each one owned by a restaurant. The idea is that you moor on their pontoon for free but then eat at their restaurant. 

We had been given a recommendation of a place called ‘Stavros’ Tracey called them as we arrived in the bay and they said they had a spot for us, he said he would come out and wave to us. 

We saw a guy waving, so duly moored alongside, chatted a bit he told us there was water and electricity. It was only after about 10 minutes we realised the place was not ‘Stavros’ at all but a completely different restaurant called ‘Vibes’ 😂 we had been poached! 

Our first job on arrival was to give the boat a really good clean. I bloody loved this! Mops, improvised brushes, hoses and lots of fun! We actually ended up doing some of the cleaning in the rain! 😂😂 It was such a hugely satisfying task, seeing the boat all shiny and clean. Bliss. 

Once we finished we had a celebratory shower and a drink and watched the beautiful huge dog, Gustav, on the boat next door trying to get to the cats on the quay! 

As expected we went to the restaurant for dinner. The food at the restaurant was delicious, a little bit more upscale than the usual Taverna but with Greek flavours. We also decided to get a little bit dressed up!
We had a really fabulous meal with lovely staff. Altogether a great day. 👌😍

I was woken in the morning to the sound of Jacques hoovering, which was odd as I’d hoovered the day before. It seems that some very cheeky cats had got on board during the night, jumped up on the side, dragged the remaining banana loaf down and had a good old munch! 😂😂

We stayed another night in Syvota, doing jobs, shopping and having a lovely lazy lunch. 

It really is a great little spot, very popular with charter boats. 

We left on Sunday morning to make our way to Lefkas town marina where we are picking up some new people! 

More on this next time. 

Have a great week lovely people.

🧡❤️💙🧡💜💚

Books read.

Private Monaco. James Patterson & Adam Hamdy. One in the series of Private books, very formulaic, predictable, easy reading and not very good! 

Sunday 20th April – Friday 25th April 2025

We all enjoyed our night in Patmos, watching the local children performing traditional dances and then stuffing our faces with yummy Greek food in a lovely Greek Taverna, served to us by a lovely Greek waiter with a strong Geordie accent! 😂 Turns out his Geordie mum married a handsome Greek guy! All very Shirley Valentine. ❤️

We set of from Patmos the next morning to make our way to Ikaria. Ikaria is one of the most northeastern of the Aegean Islands, it was created when Icarus on his escape from Minos Prison ignored his father’s advice and flew to close to the sun and crashed into the sea. 

It is also the birthplace of Dionysos, the god of wine! My kind of place. 🍷

We actually anchored in a stunning little bay with a tiny secluded beach. The surroundings were gorgeous. 

There were people on the beach, who had managed to clamber over some pretty big rocks and down a pretty steep shaley hillside! 😳

We enjoyed some downtime chilling on the boat. With one small drama when the anchor dragged and we re anchored but dragged again and almost hit some rocks! Jaques & Tracey were on hand to avert any disasters! 

The stars at night were unbelievable, so clear and so many to see! Jaques showed us an app on his phone called ‘Star Gazer’ which is fantastic, you point it at the sky and it tells you the constellations and stars. 🤩 Grantley & I spent quite a while up on deck just star gazing. 

The following morning we were off again. We are making our way to Mykonos. 

The ocean initially was eerily calm and misty and almost flat water. It looked very otherworldly, we thought we saw some dolphins, but they were just large fish jumping in the distance. The last part of the journey we were heading straight into the wind which makes it a little chilly. We were just arriving at the entrance to the Mykonos harbour when the wind really picked up, it turns out Mykonos isn’t great when the wind is in a northerly direction. Jaques decided the best bet was to avoid Mykonos and instead go across to Tinos, which has a much more sheltered harbour. 

This is what we did. We moored up at the Town Quay, in the main town, Hora, which was a perfect position to see the wonderful surroundings. 

Tinos is a busy little town, lots of ferry’s in and out. Tinos is also famous as a Greek Orthodox pilgrimage site. 

The large Church of Panagia Evangelistria at the top of the hill houses the Icon of the Holy Virgin Megalocharia. Pilgrims make their way from the port, up the steep road to the Church on their hands and knees. The town has very kindly provided them with a narrow carpeted area on the side of the road to make this journey a little easier! 

We arrived in the late afternoon and had a walk to the supermarket for essentials, butter and wafers! Then we went out again in the evening for dinner. 

The little windy lanes are fabulous and full of wonderful, shops, bars and restaurants. It was surprisingly busy and felt wonderfully vibrant. We opted to go to a Gyros restaurant, so Grantley & I could sample our first (but absolutely not our last!) Gyros Pitta! 😋 This is an essential Greek fast food, which comprises a soft pitta filled with seasoned meat, either chicken or pork, Tzatziki, tomatoes, olives and chips!! It was bloody delicious! So delicious in fact that Grantley had a second one! 😂

Grantley and I had a wander around the next morning, Grantley bought himself a string of worry beads. We have seen so many of the older Greek and also Turkish men holding and using them, the noise of the beads is quite soothing. The lovely lady that we bought them from gave us each a small safety pin with an evil eye 🧿 bead on. I tried to attach mine to my top, the bead fell off and went bouncing down the hill! Luckily it missed the drain and Grantley managed to rescue it! 

I have to admit that I am struggling to not buy more things here in Greece. Everything, clothes, bags, shoes, jewellery is in my favourite colours, blues, turquoise, greens it’s so hard to resist! 😬

Grantley and I found a fabulous Bookstore/Cafe! It was in one of the windy lanes. It was spread over 3 floors, with new and second hand books. They also had several books wrapped in brown paper, called Date Night. The idea being that you buy the package and then on your date discover what the book is! Such a good idea. I bought one for Tracey and Jaques. Which incredibly turned out to be a book about boats, called ‘Sealed Orders’ from The Fighting Sail Series!  ⛵️ 😍

We met up with Tracey and went to explore the church. We also spotted a couple of crawling pilgrims. 

Although I am an Agnostic I was raised as a catholic and I always light a candle when I go into a church. I find it very moving and comforting to take a few minutes to stop and remember all of the people I love who are sadly no longer with us. 

The church was beautiful, calm and very ornate, lots of silver and icons.

I loved the little streets of Tinos, another Island to add to your list if you’re exploring the Greek Islands! 

We decided to eat onboard on the last night, it was very windy and a little cold. Grantley & Jaques popped into town and grabbed us all some delicious Smashed Burgers! Very tasty. 😋 

We left Tinos to make our way to Kea, a longish trip of approximately 5 – 6 hours. Unfortunately after an hour or so as we were motoring along we had some smoke coming out of the engine. We had this just after we left Leros and Jaques thought there might be some residue that was burning off. However as we had a long trip, the decision was made to divert to Syros, a much closer island that had a marina and good Volvo mechanics. 

We moored up at the town quay, with the help of some old Greek guys who were sitting on a bench sharing a box of wine!! 😂

We moored up and set the passerelle (gangplank) twice due to having to manoeuvre about. This particular passerelle is large with a hinge in the middle it’s heavy and quite unwieldy, both Jaques and Tracey have sustained injuries from it the last few days! No sooner had we got sorted when the harbour master came and told us that the mechanic could look at the boat in the morning but we needed to move the boat from the quay across to the Marina! 

On a side note, the harbour master looked bloody fabulous! He was driving a trike thing, wearing red and white trainers, white shorts with a Hermes belt, a white T shirt under the most amazing shiny, red and white spotty shirt! Honestly he looked brilliant. Sadly I didn’t get a photo! 

We moved the boat across to the marina. Everything went very smoothly, no passerelle needed, thank god! We literally stepped off the boat onto the dock.

Tracey was very excited to learn that there was a Lidl in Syros, this meant good French Cheese! 🧀 

Tracey, Grantley & I walked into town, called into what we thought was the Lidl, it wasn’t 🤦‍♀️ eventually found the actual Lidl, bought French cheese, wafers and another essential item, Lidl fair trade Caramel & sea salt chocolate! Happy shoppers! 😂 

We had a delicious supper onboard comprising French cheese, nibbles and Jaques amazing Greek Salad! 🥗 

The next morning the mechanics arrived, Grandfather, Father, Son. All really lovely guys, they work on all the ferry’s and large passenger boats in the area and are very much in demand, so the fact that they fitted us in was amazing. They spent about 40 minutes on the boat, figured out the turbo was blocked, unblocked it and only charged €50! And as if that wasn’t fantastic enough they said to wait 5 minutes and someone would bring us some ‘Locum’ (local pastries, sweets) we waited for 15 minutes and then decided we really needed to leave, just as we moved away from the harbour we spotted a white car beeping and flashing their lights, it was the mechanics with our Locum! We about turned and headed back, as we certainly didn’t want to offend them. Jaques did a drive by on the dock and they expertly lobbed a carrier bag onto the trampolines at the front of the boat! 😂. The bag was filled with delicious local nougat and boxes of sugary pastries! What an awesome treat. I can’t believe that these lovely men came and fixed the turbo, charged a pittance and then gave us gifts! How cool. 

The rest of our journey to Kea was great, rainy and a little chilly but we made good time and Jaques & Grantley even made a yummy Banana Cake. We arrived at Kea around 4pm. 

We were welcomed to the island by a few beautiful dolphins leaping in front of us!🐬 💙

Once again we were helped by a local guy to moor up. Then we opened up the back of the boat and relaxed in the glorious sunshine with a cold glass of wine, people & cat watching. Heavenly. ❤️

We had dinner at a local taverna run by an old Greek couple, the food was great. A nice mixture of dishes, their Greek salad wasn’t quite as good as Jaques but everything else was lush. 

We ended the night back on the boat sipping Lemoncello and chatting shit! 😍🩵💚 A perfect end to a fantastic day. 

Have a fabulous weekend everyone.

Books read.

Birds without Wings Louis de Bernières. 

This book has taken me a while to read, but wow was it worth it. It is a truly fantastic book, beautifully written, funny, informative and poignant. A new favourite. 

Monday 24th – Wednesday 26th February 2025

After our utterly fabulous stay in Alipura, our next stop is a small place called Orchha, set on the banks of the Betwa River. It’s a short drive of around 90 mins, which is great as it means we don’t have to get up at the crack of Dawn! 😁

Just before reaching Orchha we have a stop at a paper making factory, another of the projects supported by G adventures helping local tribal women. 

The paper is made using recycled clothing and wood pulp. The process is very clever and the end result is lovely thick parchment like paper. 

We stayed in a smallish home stay/hotelin Orchha which was lovely. Some of the group did an optional cooking class and others, including myself opted to stay at the hotel and have a spa treatment! I had a fabulous reflexology massage on my rather dry and grubby feet! 😳😍

We were due to have a 2 night stay in Orchha but as we now have to fly to Varanasi we are only staying 1 night, this means a full day. After our treatments we were off out to walk through the town and visit Orchha Palace. Another beautiful Mughal building. After this we visited Vir Singh Deos Mausoleum and gardens, these were lovely, the gardens were particularly nice, very peaceful. The lovely gardener gave us all a red rose to put in our hair! 🌹❤️

From here we went down to the river to watch the sunset. The river was quite wide, fast flowing and busy! People bathing, washing clothes, picnicking, walking and relaxing. The sunset was pleasant, the smell not so much. 😬

We had a quick chance to freshen up before our evening visit to the large Ram Raja Temple for a ceremony. It was packed and pretty intense, but not too scary! All in all a full on day, but great. 

Orchha was an interesting and not too busy place, which I enjoyed visiting. 

We left early the next morning to head back to Khajuraho to fly to Varanasi.

We seem to always be arriving in places at the same time as lots of VIPs! 

The airport at Khajuraho is small but we were there at the same time as the President, Droupadi Murmu and the Chief Minister, Dr. Mohan Yadav, who we saw walking through the airport. (With a big security detail!) 

This meant that security was incredibly tight and took ages to go through, my carry on bag was searched, and I had to empty it as I had a small purse holding my keys in, which were metal and showed up on the scanner, which I had completely forgotten about! 

The President was apparently in the area to officiate at a huge mass wedding event. I think I’ve mentioned that it’s wedding season here in India at the moment and this mass wedding event is for people who can’t afford a big private wedding, so therefore they do a group one. It’s no doubt couples from the lowest caste, Shudras, which is the caste that the President herself came from. 

Our flight was great, on Indigo Air, on time, nice big comfy seats. Very nice. 

We arrived in Varanasi on 26th of February. This is also the last day of the Kumbh Mela festival. 

The Kumbh Mela Festival has attracted approximately 660 million visitors during its 6 weeks! This is an insane number of people! To put it into perspective that is nearly 10 x the population of the UK! 😳😳

Many of the people visiting the last days of Kumbh Mela were then making their way to Varanasi for the Mahashivratri Festival. This is a very important festival celebrating Lord Shivas celestial union with Goddess Parvati. The Vishwanath Temple in Varanasi is the epicentre of these celebrations.

I think I’m going to leave it there for now, as I feel that Varanasi deserves its own blog! 

Books Read.

The Wrong Hands. Mark Billingham. The 2nd Detective Miller Novel. I really enjoyed it. 

The Lost Past of Billy McQueen. Neil Alexander. An enjoyable read.

Have a great week everyone. 

💙🩷🩵❤️🧡💜💚