Our flight arrived in Varanasi at around 1pm. The airport seemed quieter than I’d expected.
This didn’t last once we left. The road into Varanasi was absolutely chocker! Cars, trucks, bikes, coaches, minibuses, pickup beds full of people. The 45 minute journey took over 2 hours. Luckily for us our hotel was in the newer part of Varanasi, so not quite as busy.
We just had time to drop off our luggage then we all climbed aboard a series of Tuk Tuks and started to make our way into the old part of Varanasi and the river Ganges for an evening boat trip.
I thought the traffic in Delhi was bad, this was on another level. So many people, Shiva Processions with horses, followers, dancing, statues plus all the usual chaos. The roads by the Ganges are closed to vehicles so we walked the last bit, It is crazy busy and so loud!
Then there we were, on the banks of the holiest of rivers, at sunset, during a significant holy festival. It was beyond belief.
We boarded our boat, I managed to do this across a wobbly platform and mud without injury! Impressive. 🥰
We set off down the river, watching all the madness on shore.
Varanasi has a series of 88 Ghats, Ghats are riverfront steps leading from the city down to the river. Some are more popular or more important than others. Dashashwamedh Ghat is very important as it’s close to the Shiva Temple, Vishwanath.
The Ganges was misty and atmospheric, so many boats and people on the Ghats or bathing in the river purifying themselves, floral offerings were floating on the river, the sun was setting, on the other side there were more people, tents and camels. It felt like we had stepped back in time.
So much to see and absorb. I have never seen or been anywhere quite like it. The atmosphere was incredible, you could feel the festival, celebratory vibe in the air.
On Dashashwamedh Ghat and some of the other Ghats there are lots of Naga Sadhus, or holy men. These men have given up all material processions and devote themselves to spiritual enlightenment. They have travelled from all over an India and particularly Nepal to attend the Kumbh Mela and then on to Varanasi for the Maha Shivaratri Festival
Some of these Sudhus are naked and covered in ash from the funeral pyres. People are desperate to take blessings from these holy men and they are treated with utmost respect.
Our boat took us past Manikarnika Ghat. This is one of the cities oldest and holiest Ghats and is the scared spot for Hindu Cremation.
The cremations take place outside on the Ghat using wood and a flame taken from the eternal flame said to have been burning there for thousands of years.
It’s very difficult to convey the sights, sounds and smells of Varanasi and the Ganges. It is an assault on all of your senses but not unpleasant just slightly overwhelming. I felt quite emotional.
We made our way back to shore and walked through the throngs of people to our Tuk Tuks and a much needed late dinner!
The following day we had some free time. There was an optional tour to a Buddhist Temple, but to be honest I was feeling all templed out!
I had been looking forward to a nice lie in however the 100s of sodding mosquitoes in my room put paid to that! 🦟 Fuckers.
I’ve had not bites in India, now I have around 20, also some on my face! Fun.
Vikram had pointed out a very old hotel near Dashashwamedh Ghat, right in the thick of everything. He said it was a very nice hotel, so my plan was to go there, sit on the terrace and watch everything going on, have some peace and quiet, people watch and chill.
Lovely Hannah from the tour said she would like to join me, which was great. Vikram explained that we might need to walk a little way due to roads still being shut, which was fine.
After leaving the Tuk Tuk, we grabbed a rickshaw operated by a little old fella, who insisted we get on his particular rickshaw!
He took us through some back roads, which were still really busy, and then dropped us off by a very busy roundabout.
The Maha Shivratri Festival was still in full swing, there had been a procession early in the morning with a Shiva Statue taken from the Temple. People were queuing to visit the temple, the queue was over 2 kilometres long 😳 People were leaving, people were arriving, people were everywhere and in amongst all of this were Hannah & myself trying to find our way to this bloody hotel!
Luckily Hannah’s google maps was good, and she could read it well, so we made our way in a zig zag through the throng in all the tiny little windy streets, it was amazing. Although it was away from some of the crowds it was still busy with the local people just going about their lives. After a while we made it to the hotel. We took the lift up and were then asked to wait in reception, as we weren’t residents or have a table booked.
We could see the outside terrace with its fabulous view, then the manager came and explained that we could come into the restaurant for lunch, but there would be a 2100 rupee surcharge (approximately £21) plus our meal. The restaurant was inside with no views, the prices were very high, so although we were gasping for a drink and a sit down we decided to leave. We asked if there were any other restaurants/cafes nearby, which the rather surly staff didn’t seem to know. They told us to take the lift down and walk along the Ghat and see if we could find anything! Helpful..not.
We duly took the lift and then found ourselves right in the thick of all the goings on! People, priests, Sudhus (naked & clothed) dogs, children, bathers, everyone, everywhere all at once! It was crazy! 🤯
We were also being hassled quite badly for photographs and selfies particularly by men and especially Hannah who is Tall, young, blonde and beautiful. It gets very annoying very quickly.
We couldn’t find anywhere to go, so went back to the hotel to ask if they could organise a Tuk Tuk or rickshaw. They couldn’t. A nice guy explained that we should go back down walk along past 3 or 4 Ghats then head back into the Melee. 😳😬😳
We did at least get a couple of minutes on the terrace!
Off we went back into it, and boy it was crazy! We were walking along the busiest most important Ghats.
I got patted on the head with some peacock feathers by a naked Sudhu which I’m taking to be a blessing! 🥰
We walked back through the madness for ages and eventually came to a road with Tuk Tuks, jumped in and asked to go to the shopping mall near our hotel.
After an hour of him battling the insane traffic we made it to the Mall, and much to Hannah’s joy a MacDonalds! 😂😍 We also bumped into several of our tour buddies in Maccy Ds.
I opted for a coke and fries. Then Negiz said that there was supposed to be a nice coffee place nearby so we walked there.
Oh my god! It was lush, in a lovely hotel, gorgeous gardens, quiet and peaceful! Why hadn’t I just come here this morning? 😂
To be honest I wouldn’t have missed our completely immersive Varanasi experience for anything. It was hot, dusty, smelly, mad, chaotic, colourful, vibrant, loud and totally amazing. 🤩🧡💚❤️💙💜🩷
Having said that it was such a joy to sit in the garden with a cold drink and catch up on writing my blog and relax.
We had dinner that night in a really nice restaurant, unfortunately they forgot my order so I ended up eating last, but it was the most yummy Adraki Aloo Gobi, I’ve had so far. 😋😋
We were up and out at silly o clock again the next morning, 5am!
I managed to get a little more sleep, having killed most of the Mosquitoes in my room and by sleeping completely inside the duvet cover.
We were heading back to the Ganges for a sunrise boat trip.
Lovely Vikram had organised for a sitar player and a drummer to join us and play some beautiful music while we drifted along the Ganges watching the sunrise. He also bought us all a flower offerings to set afloat on the water with a prayer.
I found this all very emotional and moving. Seeing the flowers and the flames carrying our thoughts, wishes and prayers along the Ganges was something very special.
We came back to shore at the Cremation Ghat, Manaharinkia Ghat. The largest and most auspicious Ghat. It was very busy and also very muddy. I was a genuinely concerned about ending up in the mud like I had done in the Killing Fields, luckily I didn’t.
Here we met our guide, who was going to take us on a Heritage Walk through Old Varanasi. I was looking forward to it, even though I feel Hannah and I had already done a pretty comprehensive walk the day before. 😀
Our walk started beside the Crematorium. Where we learnt about the Hindu rituals around death and cremation.
This crematorium Ghat is very sacred and many people wish to be burnt here, many old people also want to come to Varanasi to die.
The crematorium runs constantly, and is particularly busy at night.
The families brink their deceased relative down to the Ghat, they then immerse them in the holy water of the Ganges to purify them. The bodies are wrapped in cloth and treated with oils and herbs, and then covered in Ghee. This means that there is no unpleasant smell. A funeral pyre is built using wood from the Himalayas the body is placed on the pyre and a flame lit, from the eternal flame created by Shiva, this is done by the eldest son or male family member. Females are not allowed to take part in the cremation ritual.
The cremation takes between 3 -4 hours. Once the body is burnt the ashes are then scattered into the Ganges thereby salvation is achieved.
Our guide took us right up onto the cremation platform, we arrived just as a body was beginning to burn, and others were now reduced to ash. We were standing feet away from the cremation site and walked inches away from the ash filled pits. I found it incredibly confronting and difficult. Our guide asked if we wanted to stay in that spot while he explained everything and I said No, please could we leave and do it elsewhere. I wasn’t comfortable being there, I felt we were intruding on the families grief and ceremony. It was uncomfortable and upsetting.
I was also aware that there was a lot of ash and smoke in the air that we were breathing in.
We left.
I have since asked Vikram how the family would feel about us being there, he seemed to think it was ok, I’m not so sure.
All of us were pleased to move away.
I am aware that I am bringing my own cultural sensitivities to this situation, but nevertheless it was difficult.
At another Cremation Ghat further down the river, we had witnessed tourists, knelt down right next to bodies taking pictures, which is completely disrespectful.
Once we all composed ourselves we continued on our walk.
The winding old streets of Varanasi are filled with unexpected things, huge cows, temples, shops, priests, food stalls, dogs, bikes, mopeds, people, cow dung, rats, homes, shrines, cows in peoples homes, children, colourful doors, offerings. 😍
It is wonderful, it feels ancient and beautiful.
We stopped at a food stall to try some Kachori-sabzi, crispy dumpling things with a spicy dal. I opted not to have one, but I did try some and it was very good! We also stopped at the best Lassi stall in Varanasi. The yogurt is made fresh and then the drink is mixed to order. I have never had a Lassi, it simply didn’t appeal. But I decided to give it a go and I have to say it was delicious 🤤. The Lassi is served in an earthen ware cup, which tradition states you have to break when finished.
I really enjoyed the walk and seeing all the sites, even those that were difficult. Varanasi is a unique and special place and I feel very privileged to have been here and shared in such an important festival.
It was our last night together as a group so we went to a nice restaurant and enjoyed a yummy meal.
Our time together has gone by so quickly. I was very apprehensive about doing an organised tour, and I’m so pleased to say that I absolutely loved it.
I think we were very lucky to have so many fabulous people in our group, everyone was kind, thoughtful and fun. We got on well, we laughed, we cried (well I did!) To meet so many strong, capable, independent, well traveled women was an inspiration.
We were also blessed with the most wonderful guide, Vikram, he was fantastic. Knowledgeable, calm, organised and just lovely.
I couldn’t imagine doing India on my own, I certainly wouldn’t have had as many fantastic experiences. I would recommend looking at the company I used, ‘G Adventures’ to any solo female traveler.
We all landed back Delhi feeling a little subdued. Some of the group stayed on in the airport to get onward flights, most were leaving early the next day. Only Carol, Gill and myself were hanging around in Delhi.
We met for breakfast and then it was time for final goodbyes and I was back to being a solo traveler, having to organise myself and make my own decisions! 😟
I am still pretty behind with my blog, due to lack of wifi or time to write it! I intend to catch up in the next couple of days.
Books read.
Current book not finished yet!
Have a great day everyone.
Thinking of you all and missing you.
💚❤️🧡🩷💜🩵💙
Hereandthereclaire.com 