vietnam – Hereandthereclaire.com

Thursday 10th – Monday 14th October 2024.

My flight to Hanoi was pretty straightforward & uneventful. I did my usual thing of arriving very early, this wouldn’t be an issue accept that the airport is very small and pretty basics so not really anywhere to go and sit while a wait for check in to open!

After check in a find a little cafe and chill, with a coffee. The flight only takes an hour, and I know I’ve tried to avoid flights where possible but the thought of doing a 12 – who knows! Long bus journey was too much! 😳

I’ve arranged with the hotel to pick me up, it’s around the same price as a cab or Grab and it’s just lots simpler.

I arrive at my hotel around 5pm. I’m greeted by the amazing William, who is just so attentive, helpful and kind. He explains all the attractions to me, goes through the map, then he also gives me a link to a website he is designing for tourists in Hanoi. I have to say it is fabulous! Not quite finished but so good.. www.hanoimystery.com

I book a city tour for Saturday, check out my room, large, comfy but no windows, TBF in this instance I don’t mind at all. I am staying right in the heart of the Old Quarter and it’s so built up, my room is at the back and probably overlooks other peoples homes.

I venture out, being mindful of the traffic. I’ve had lots of warnings about how mad it is! I think it’s busy but no worse than HCM or Phnom Penh. The key is to just slowly walk out into the traffic and the mopeds and cars go around you, you can’t go fast as that’s when they’ll hit you. So far I’m handling it like a local! 😂🤞🤞

It’s so busy and vibrant! I love it. I have a walk around by the hotel, then find a nice rooftop Bar to have a drink, it’s a lovely bar, Cloud Sky Bar, but it’s a little expensive but then it is on top of a posh hotel!

I have a couple of Margarita’s and then order some veg fried rice. Lovely William had recommended a place to eat but it’s a bit of a trek, perhaps tomorrow.

On the walk back to the hotel I stop at a sidewalk bar/cafe, there are loads. I sit next to a nice couple from Bristol and we have a great chat and sip our beer watching the world speed past! All these little pavement places have very low stools and tables, I’m pleased to say that I managed to both sit down and more impressively get back up without incident! 😳😂😂

Thankfully the weather in Hanoi is warm and sunny, it is Autum and a busy time here in part because the weather is milder than during the summer when it gets up into the 40s! 🥵

I’m going to go for a wander and make my way to the large lake nearby, Hoàn Kiém Lake.

Just as I arrive in the lobby a procession is going past, lots of drumming, costumes, flowers and celebrations! It’s fabulous. It’s a celebration for the local temple which is just around the corner. The people in the procession look a little serious until I notice that the locals are waving and smiling at them, I try this and am rewarded with lots of enthusiastic waving and huge smiles! 😍💛❤️ It is a wonderful start to my day. ❤️

William has given me a map, which I’m trying to follow, but it isn’t very detailed and the scale is way off, so everything looks like it’s far away. I give up and just go with my instincts and magically make it to the Lake.

There is a beautiful Temple on the lake, Ngoc Son Temple which I wanted to see.

The lake is a very popular place for Hanoians and especially for ladies wearing their ‘Ao Dai’ the modernised Vietnamese National Dress and taking part in the custom of dressing up and taking pictures at important, historic or beautiful places. The whole area around the lake is a sea of colour and beauty. The Ao Dais are stunning, and everyone looks gorgeous, it’s quite a spectacle.

I’ve seen this in other places in Vietnam, but this is on a different level! 😍 Several ladies drag me into their photos, which is fun, I’m also surrounded by a bevy of beauties whilst sitting in a bench! I think they liked my colourful glasses and my mad hair!! It was so much fun. 🤩

I then went in to the Temple, which was beautiful. Inside there was an older Vietnamese man doing calligraphy on scrolls. I stood and watched for a while, it’s amazing. Eventually I decide that I’m going to have one done. I chose my words and the scroll and watch as he writes it. It’s really gorgeous. I chose the Words Brave & Strong. 🩵

I end up spending quite a bit of time by the lake. Then I see they have hop on hop off buses and as it’s now quite hot, I decide to do this. I want to go to one particular place, The Women’s Museum, which the bus stops at. The lady at the kiosk says it’s too far to walk.

I get on the bus and opt not to sit upstairs in the bright sunshine. Then a woman sits next to me and proceeds to have a full on argument with someone on her phone which is on speaker 🔈! FFS 🤦‍♀️. It’s so loud! Even the staff on the bus look shocked and smile at me sympathetically! Eventually, after about 10 mins she shuts up, I wouldn’t mind but I can’t understand what the arguments about, so I can’t even be nosy! 😂

The rest of the bus ride is good, a great commentary.

A lot of the places we go past I’m going back to tomorrow on my tour.

The museum is fascinating. So inspiring to have a museum celebrating Women and their contribution to the country, its culture and its freedom. I’m really glad I visited.

Once I’m here I realise that it’s actually not that far to walk from the lake, so I walk back.

Down by the lake and in fact all over Hanoi there are Vietnamese flags everywhere. This is because on the 10th October, the day I arrived, they celebrated 70 years of the liberation of Hanoi from the French.

You can really feel the sense of celebration in the city, lots of the women’s Ao Dais are red, the flags, the flowers. They are rightfully proud of their independence. 🇻🇳

On the way back I have another place I want to visit, Giang Cafè. This is where in 1946 they first made Egg Coffee, due to the shortage of milk someone had the idea to use egg yolk, whisked to form a creamy accompaniment to the coffee.

Tracey had tried it and said it was yummy. I have held out until I got to Hanoi.

I eventually find the Café, which is small and not that easy to spot. It is packed, I find a small stool and order my Egg Coffee with Rum! (I feel I’ve earned it!) I’m really a not sure what to expect.

It arrives and it looks delicious, smells delicious, and wow, it tastes delicious as well! Kind of like butterscotch, honeycomb, caramel, sweet and fluffy. It is honestly so good!! 😋😋😋 I will be having this again!

By the time I get back to the hotel it’s only 2.30pm, but I’m going to have a rest and cool off. Before going back out later.

I seem to have done something to a muscle or tendon on my hip/glute area on the left side, after walking for a while it starts Twinging, and feels like my leg is going to give out! Not ideal. 🙁 After a rest it’s usually ok.

After a nice rest and a shower I head back out. There is another Rooftop bar I’d like to visit, mainly because they offer such great views!

This one, Midnight Sky Bar proves to be a little elusive, I eventually spot the small sign with the help of a backpacker from the hostel across the road! 😂

The bar is sweet, but completely empty, the guy comes up in the lift with me to open up and make the drinks.

I don’t mind it being empty, I have a great catch up with Rebecca whilst watching the sun go down, sipping a Long Island Iced Tea! ❤️

I wander back towards the hotel and find a place next door to eat. It does a nice vegetarian menu, it’s also right next door to the hotel, which my legs are grateful for! I’ve done over 20,000 steps today.

My city tour starts OK, the bus arrives pretty much when they said 8.10, I’m ready and waiting in the lobby.

However I then spend another 65 mins sat on the bus while it picks other people up, I don’t mind the pick ups what I do have a huge problem with is people not being ready! The pick ups should have taken around 15 mins the rest of the time we are just waiting for people to appear! So bloody annoying! Then they get on the bus brazen as you like!

There are a couple of guys who are very arrogant and entitled. One of them is the designated leader of his little posse, they are only doing a half day tour and he wants the bus to drop them all of at his chosen Restaurant for lunch, even though this is completely out of the way! Luckily the guide says no. They are late returning to the bus after each activity and he pushes in front of me in line twice! What an absolute knobhead!

There are new people joining the tour in the afternoon, which means another hour wasted waiting for people to turn up! 😠 Altogether nearly 2 hours of the day are wasted just waiting. For someone who is always on time, if not early this is really fucking annoying!

Anyway, rant over! 😠😂

The Tour. We start with a visit to the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. What I hadn’t realised when booking the tour is that the Mausoleum is only open for viewing inside on Saturday & Sunday, luckily for me I booked a Saturday!

The queues to get in are mad! As is the level of security. Almost stricter than airport security! There are lots of military personnel about, some armed and also lots of police.

There is no photography allowed near or inside the tomb. The whole viewing was very intense.

Ho Chi Minh or Uncle Ho is a most beloved and revered person in Vietnam especially in the north.

He died in 1969 aged 79. Russia sent specialists to Vietnam to show them how to preserve his body and build the Mausoleum.

I’m glad I got to experience the Mausoleum even though it’s a weird feeling seeing a preserved body.

After the Mausoleum our next stop was the Museum of Ethnology, which was very interesting looking at the 54 officially recognised ethnic groups within Vietnam.

Once all the people bothered to return to the bus we headed to a place showing you how Lacquer work is made and giving you the opportunity to purchase some work.

Then the painful process of picking up and dropping people off before we could go for a much needed lunch.

I think I really needed my lunch as I was feeling a little cranky! 😂

After lunch we visited the Tran Quoc Pagoda on West Lake, the largest lake in Hanoi.

Next stop was The Temple of literature, Văn Miêu.

This was the first university in Vietnam. It was founded in 1070 under the Ly Thanh Tong’s dynasty to honour Confucius.

It’s a beautiful temple with lovely grounds and students still come here to pray for luck in their exams and their studies.

I really enjoyed this part of the trip, the area felt calm and peaceful.

Our last stop was Hoa Lo Prison or as it was called by the US POWs, The Hanoi Hilton.

This prison complex was built by the French in 1896 and housed Vietnamese political prisoners until the mid 1950s they used a guillotine to behead prisoners and placed the heads outside to instil fear and intimidation.

American POWs were also held here during the Vietnam war, including Senator John McCain who was shot down over Hanoi.

Another interesting place to visit, albeit a little gruesome.

All in all a good day seeing some key sites in and around Hanoi.

I then get dropped off first! Hallelujah! 🙌 although it’s been a fair amount of sitting on the bus I’ve still managed 15,000 steps!

I’m hungry, thirsty and a little tired. I spotted a great little local place up the road doing Pho! So I go there for my dinner, it’s a little early and I’m the only person there, but hey Ho! My Pho is bloody delicious 🤤 pho Pho is essentially a variation of chicken noddle soup. If you don’t like coriander, then it’s not for you!

Home, via the little ice cream place next door. Where an ice cream cone is 10,000 dong, about 60p! Sadly I only have 9,000 or a 100,000 note, so he lets me off the 1,000! 😍😍

My last full day in Hanoi! It’s seems to have gone by quite quickly.

I’m going to try and not go mad with the walking as my glute is still not right.

I start with a nice slow breakfast, aided by the ever present and helpful William.

It’s another sunny day so I’m going to take a slow walk down towards the Lake and visit St Joseph’s Cathedral, it’s in an area that looks busy and bustling.

It is very busy! Loads of local people about on foot and on the ever present mopeds!

The road around the lake is closed too traffic on weekends making it a pleasant place to stroll around. Lots of families having a day out, eating ice creams and dressed in their best clothes!

I make sure today that I’m taking breaks, I have one by the lake over a refreshing Peach Iced Tea, then another wander and another stop for a beer! More wandering and a stop for a coffee!

I grab a Banh Mai for lunch which I have back at the hotel and have a good chat to Tracey. ❤️

I go out pretty early evening to grab a beer and sit and watch Hanoi go by. I end up getting chatting to a very funny & entertaining English guy called Simon. He lives in Kuala Lumpur with his very beautiful wife, who is off getting a foot massage. He was great fun to chat with and we had a proper laugh! I then had my last meal, vegetable fried rice, obviously!

A lovely last evening in Vietnam.

I’ve absolutely loved my time here in Vietnam, it’s been so interesting and diverse and Hanoi has been a highlight!

So I’ve traveled across 4 countries and now I need a little bit of R & R!

Heading back to Australia today, fingers crossed the flights all time out ok, my first leg has already been delayed for an hour, but that’s good as it cuts my waiting time in Ho Chi Minh City.

Have a great week everyone.

Happy Birthday to my beautiful friend Jenna. Have the best day. 🎉❤️🎉❤️

Books read.

Grave Talk by Nick Spalding. I enjoyed this, a bit of easy reading.

The House of Mirrors. Erin Kelly. I started it, but was struggling to be interested. So gave it up! Might try again at some point.

Sunday 6th – Thursday 10th October 2024

After some confusion about which hotel I was staying at, my bus eventually picked me up at 10am. Again, a really spacious and comfortable ride, the driver pointed out we even had massage chairs!! 😂 I didn’t get this ride all to myself, in fact it was full of a mixture of tourists and locals, some of whom I think had a deal with the driver independently as he picked them up and dropped then off at random places. The journey took around 3.5 hours and was overall pretty good.

Hue, seems nice, wide streets, nice old buildings, not mad busy.

My hotel is pretty central, and nice, quite big and seems to have a fair number of Australian tour guests. Once I’m checked in and booked a couple of tours with the hotel I head out to explore. Taking my trusty knackered umbrella as it’s drizzling!

I walk down towards the river, The Perfume River, apparently it used to smell very lovely, sadly not anymore. There are some nice gardens alongside the river and I spot an art gallery, which I’ll go back to.

I end up down in the centre where all the bars and restaurants are. Tracey had told me to check out a bar called “The DMZ” which I came across almost straight away. It looked busy and lively, so I thought I’d pop in for a beer.

It was ‘very’ lively, full of Aussies all here to watch the National Final of the Australian Rugby League, NRL. I arrived just as the match started. 😂🏈🏈

I settled in to watch! It was a good game, with the Penrith Panthers beating the Melbourne Storm. The Panthers were wearing pink kits which I liked! 🩷 I ended up staying for a couple of beers, then a couple of margaritas, having a dance to ‘Country Roads’ with a very happy Penrith supporter! 😂 all in all an unexpectedly fun afternoon/evening😍

I have booked a half day tour to visit the Imperial Palace, the Pagoda and a short boat trip. The trip was a full day but the afternoon activities didn’t appeal, so I opted to finish just before they do lunch.

The weather is less than ideal! Absolutely torrential rain, I feel my little brolly isn’t up to the task, so borrow a larger more sturdy one from the hotel.

Our first stop is the Thien Mu Pagoda. This Pagoda was built in 1601 and it is beautiful, as are the gardens surrounding it. Lots of amazing Bonsai. Unfortunately on the short walk from the Minibus to the Pagoda I get completely soaked! Huge puddles everywhere, soak my shoes, the rain soaks the bottom of my trousers, trying to protect my bag, which has my phone (my camera) in means that my back gets soaked. I am literally soaked through! Luckily it is warm rain, but it is a little uncomfortable 😳

But, it is what it is, nothing I can do about it, my clothes will dry, eventually!

After the Pagoda it’s a boat journey down the Perfume River. I will admit to being a little nervous about getting on & off the boat, my track record on this isn’t great, especially in the rain. But, I bossed it! 😎

The journey was pretty uneventful. The river isn’t used for trade, or even fishing, so there’s not a lot going on.

From the river we make our way to the Imperial Palace and Citadel.

Hue used to be the Imperial Capital of Vietnam. The Citadel contains the palaces that housed the imperial family as well as offices of state, gardens and buildings used for other important functions.

After the end of the monarchy in 1945 the buildings suffered heavy damage and neglect during the Indochina wars from between 1945 – 1980. The grounds are undergoing restoration, the Kings Palace has been fully restored.

It was a very Imposing site and I absolutely loved the grounds, especially the beautiful gardens. As impressive as the restored Palace was, it wasn’t my favourite bit, a little too shiny.

I had started to dry out a little, which was nice! It was still raining but not heavily. After the Imperial Palace the next stop was the large central market. To be honest this was a bit of a waste of time, I’ve been to so many markets that this held nothing new. I left the tour at this point and had a nice stroll back across the river, during a dry spell. I stopped for a coffee and just as I sat down inside the heavens opened again!

When the rain is heavy here, it’s next level heavy!!

I simply sat, enjoying my coffee and reading my book! 📕💦🌧️💧

By late afternoon the rain has finally stopped so I head out into town for some early dinner. The area with all the bars and restaurants is an easy walk from the hotel and I’m sure it gets busy later, when I’m tucked up in bed! I’m back in my room by 6.30pm! I have a lovely catch up with Nikki and finish my book, which I’m loving. I have a big tour the next day so try and get an early night, but it just isn’t happening! I’m still awake thinking/over thinking 🤨 at 1.30am! I must eventually go off as I’m in a lovely deep sleep when my alarm goes off at 6am!! 😫

Today’s tour is to the DMZ or Demilitarised Zone. This is the area that divided Vietnam into North & South and also the area that saw some of the worst fighting during the Vietnam War.

There is a lovely couple from my hotel going on the trip as well, Jody & Dilesh who are from the Netherlands. There are also a few more Dutch people on the trip, as well as an Aussie guy, a Kiwi and his Vietnamese friend. It’s a really nice group. Our guide is called Hoa (pronounced qua) She is absolutely fantastic, so incredibly knowledgeable about everything. It’s quite a long drive to and between sites, but Hoa uses this time to explain the history behind the Indochina Wars, all 3. She also explains everything from a neutral perspective, but this is somewhat different to the perspective we usually get which is definitely biased towards the West, USA and non communist sensitivities.

She also plays some interesting songs that are about Vietnam or anti war songs. Universal Solider, Born in the USA, Have you ever seen the Rain, Ken Sanh Song. This all adds to the mood.

Our first stop is Quang Tri Citadel. This is the site of the a battle called Lam Som 72 the goal was for the Americans to capture or retake the Citadel, an area of only 2,000 square meters fighting went on for 81 days and the USA dropped 328,000 tons of bombs on the area. The site is now a memorial to the thousands of Vietnamese soldiers that died defending the site and whose remains were destroyed with the buildings.

From here we drive alongside the Cam Lo river on Road 9, an important route that goes to Loas. This is also where large parts of the Hoh Chi Minh Trail are.

Our next stop is at Khe Sanh Combat Base. This was a US Marine Corps outpost. It was built in 1962 and used until 1975. It’s not far from the border between Vietnam & Laos.

Khe Sanh and whole area around here saw some of the most brutal combat of the War claiming lots of casualties on both sides. They still have old helicopters, Hueys, Chinooks and cargo planes & tanks at the base.

It’s interesting to hear about the Vietnamese soldiers, the Viet Cong, NFL or LA from a different perspective. America poured huge amounts of $ into the war and used massive amounts of bombs and arms. The Vietnamese had less money so they fought back in a much more low tech way, making use of the terrain, collecting and repairing abandoned US equipment. When you see the area on a rainy day with the rivers flowing fast and thick mud everywhere I can’t begin to imagine how it felt for a young American boy to arrive and be expected to fight an unknown enemy in a completely alien environment for some vague political reasons!

The more I see, hear & understand about the Vietnam War the more tragic and hideous it becomes for all of those involved.

The weather on the trip was very changeable! We were so lucky that every time we arrived at a destination, the weather cleared!

When we arrived at Khe Sanh you could barely see anything, there was mist and cloud covering the whole site, this miraculously cleared and you got to see the mountains surrounding the site.

From Khe Sanh we travelled up into the DMZ and the bridge that crosses the Ben Hai River. Half of which was in North Vietnam, painted blue and half in South Vietnam, painted yellow.

The flag pole on the north side still remains but the one on the south side has been taken down! The flag is huge! During the conflict the flag poles were used to make a point, getting higher and higher, until the one of the North side reached 38 metres.

It’s an interesting place to visit, It just didn’t feel very well looked after.

From here it was a short drive to the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

These tunnels were made by the villagers, to protect them from the ariel bombing. There are 100s of these tunnels all over the region.

They are on 3 levels, 8 – 10 meters, then 12 – 15 meters the third level is 20 – 23 meters. Inside the tunnels they had a meeting rooms, a surgery room, a nursery, kitchens and toilets.

In total 17 babies were born in the tunnels, 15 of whom are still alive today. The tunnels were used between 1966 – 1971 the villagers would go into the tunnels during bombing, in total 9,000 tons of bombs were dropped in the Vinh Moc tunnel area.

The height and width have been expanded since then to accommodate us larger tourists! But it’s still pretty poky and very hot 🥵 I can’t imagine being down there for days on end, but people were, it’s what saved their lives.

The excavated earth was transported during the night to be dumped into the sea, or placed into bomb craters to hide any evidence of the tunnels construction.

It was fascinating to visit, I can’t say I enjoyed being in the tunnels, but glad that I did it. The photos from inside aren’t great, as I was holding an umbrella, using my phone as a light and trying not to slip or hit my head!

The whole day was incredibly interesting and I learnt a lot.

It was also lovely chatting to and getting to know Jody & Delish. Jody is a little claustrophobic and she managed to do the whole tunnel tour! Kudos to her. 👍❤️

By the time I got back I was thirsty and hungry. I decided to just go to the hotel restaurant, but when I got there they had a big party of people and not many staff, so I figured I might be better off heading out, which I did, much to the dismay of my aching feet! 😃

I had a celebration cocktail to mark the 1 year anniversary of my meeting with a Rosemary Bush! 😂 which involved a child’s party, Prosecco, Jack Daniels (or possibly not!) and a strategically placed Rosemary bush! 🤪💚😂 I blame Stephanie!! 😂

I spent my last full day in Hue just mooching about. I had a nice leisurely breakfast (not the best I’ve had) and started writing my blog, which always takes longer than I think!

It was raining, surprise, surprise ! 😳 I waited until it stopped then made my way across the bridge to the Central Market. I knew that upstairs they had lots of ladies making clothes and I needed my favourite trousers repaired. They have elasticated bottoms and the it had gone in one leg, plus one of the seams was coming loose.

It made a change to be walking in the sunshine, even if it was only for 10 mins!

On the way I popped back into the Gallery that I’d seen on my first day.

Once I got to the market I made my way to the second floor and spoke to one of the ladies, I explained what I needed, after convincing her I didn’t need a new dress, a new jacket or any trousers, even if she did have then in a ‘Big Size’! 😂 she took my hand and led me through the many many stalls and pointed down the stairs and told me to go down then out!

I did as she said, asked another older lady, who also took me by the hand and led me outside the building, along the path then through an old doorway and up some dark and dodgy stairs into a room full of people sewing!

Another lady came over, I again explained and showed her what I needed, for some reason she seemed thrilled about this! She gave my trousers to a nice gentleman who wasn’t sewing anything and told me it would be 50,000 dong (approx £2) she then hugged me, twirled me round hugged me again, grabbed my hand and led me back down the stairs! 😂😂 it was all very odd but very funny!!

I so wanted to get a photo of the room with all the sewers in but I felt it would be rude. I returned in an hour to collect my perfectly repaired trousers, I paid him 100,000 and everyone then all started saying bye and waving at me! 😍❤️❤️

After this I walked back across the river, grabbed a coffee, a delicious Cafè Moui, sat out a brief downpour then returned once again to the hotel to finish writing and to book my next accommodation.

For my last evening in Hue, I’m going to have a ride on a Cyclo.

There is an old guy outside the hotel who has asked me if I want a ride at least twice a day since I arrived, so today I’m going say yes!

When I get outside there are 3 guys, the lovely old guy and 2 younger guys. I ask for him, he looks very pleased.

After a lot of discussion, Google Translate and help from the concierge we finally figure out where I’m going and how much! 😂 I’m literally just going down the road but even then I feel guilty being ferried around by a guy who looks 112! 😳 But he’s happy, it’s fun so I just enjoy it and when we arrive I pay him double, which is still only £3!

So, I’m leaving Hue tomorrow and going to Hanoi for 4 nights.

I thought I might go from Hanoi to Japan or possibly somewhere else, Chiang Mai, Phuket, for a couple of weeks of chilling. However the weather in SE Asia is pretty wet in most places and I have far too much stuff to take to Japan.

So my decision is to return to Australia and stay at Rebecca & Chris’s for a little while and then plan a Japanese trip, with less luggage! And my onward travel from there.

I think it might also be nice to stay in one place for a couple of weeks! 😍 And I get to see my beautiful daughter. ❤️

That’s it for now guys.

Have a great week.

💛🤎🧡💛❤️🤎🧡❤️

🎉 🩷A very Happy 5th Birthday to the Beautiful Clementine! 🎉🩷

Books read:

Random Acts of Heroic Love. Danny Scheinmann. An excellent book. I loved everything about it.

Thank you Jane for a great recommendation! ❤️❤️

Please keep your book recommendations coming.

Thursday 1st – Sunday 6th

Having arrived in Hoi An my original plan was to eat at the hotel then begin exploring tomorrow. Unfortunately there was no restaurant at the hotel, so I decided to walk into the old town for some food.

Hoi An Od Town is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. I can understand why, it’s beautiful.

The Old Town is built alongside the river, Thu Bõn River, at night there are beautiful small boats all lit up with lanterns gliding along the river, all the stores have lanterns, it’s so colourful and pretty.

I was a little knackered so stopped at one of the first restaurants I came to, which was a Pho & Noddle place. I then had my first Pho!

For those that don’t know this is a traditional Vietnamese dish of rice noddles, meat or seafood in a delicious broth. I opted for a chicken Pho. It was lovely, the broth is very thin but super tasty.

My plan was to then head back, but I ended up walking almost through the entire Old Town!

It’s very busy in Hoi An in the evening, lots of tours come in from Da Nang to see the beautiful lantern boats and float candles in the river.

I eventually headed back and got a good nights sleep.

I have breakfast included in my hotel and it’s a small affair but tasty and in this family run hotel everyone is so friendly and helpful.

I need to go to a ATM today, which I hate doing, I’m always convinced the machine is going to take my card! It’s also tricky as the currency is in big denominations, so I’m always panicking about exactly how many zeros are in a million? 😳😂

I find a machine and manage to successfully withdraw the required amount!! I then buy a ticket for the Old Town. The ticket is really cheap but it then allows you to enter all the historical sites within the Old Town, the money goes towards the upkeep and restoration of the site.

The Old Town is very different in the mornings, not as many people, more locals going about their day. It is still gorgeous, the lanterns and flowers everywhere are stunning.

Hoi An is known for its tailors, so lots of people get bespoke clothing made here, they also have lots of leather shops with more bespoke services. The leather work looks fabulous, so many cowboy boots in every conceivable colour, bags in all colours and designs! 😍 I am seriously tempted, but I simply don’t have capacity for anything else. (Let’s see if this remains the case over the coming 4 days!)

There are street vendors everywhere, selling beautiful 3d cards, bookmarks, fridge magnets, also ladies selling cones of coconut biscuits, peanuts & crystallised ginger. Although they are keen to sell but they aren’t too pushy.

I end up seeing the same lady a few times and promise if I see her again I’ll buy something.

I do try the biscuits and ginger, which is great but the ginger is strong!

I have a look around the Old covered Japanese Bridge, and some of the other historical sites. But mostly I just ambled around looking at everything.

I walked back along the river which is a much prettier and quieter than the road!

It’s hot & humid here so I cool off in the pool, which is nice and cold!

A couple from Canada, the Yukon, are also in the pool and we get chatting. Evi & Donald are great.

I’m going to to walk back into the Old Town for dinner as I’ve seen a place that Tracey & Jaques have recommended, called ‘Morning Glory’ it’s an old, well established Vietnamese restaurant with fabulous reviews!

Just before dinner I stop for a cheeky cocktail in a bar above the Old Market, another recommendation from Tracey & Jaques! It’s has great views across the river. The cocktail I choose is a rum based one, they focus on Gin mostly. It’s pinkish and looks sweet, but isn’t and is delicious!

I am super impressed to see that it arrives with some very fancy ‘Bally Ice’ which is even more fancy as it’s got flowers in! Shabazz would be so proud! I’m definitely not a ‘Povo’ 😂😂 (you need to check out Shabazz

on Instagram, very funny!)

Morning Glory lives up to its reviews, fast efficient, friendly service and delicious food. I opted for Hoi A Chicken Rice, which is pretty much what it says, Chicken, Rice, herbs and a side of yummy broth. It was light and so flavourful. The atmosphere inside is also great, really buzzy.

I head back after dinner along the river, which is quiet but not deserted so feels safe.

I think so far Hoi An has been fantastic. Easy to navigate on foot, pretty, colourful, easy to get great Vietnamese food, culturally and historically interesting and fun!

I’ve booked myself onto a 1/2 day tour to visit a site called ‘My Son’. Which means, Beautiful Mountain.

This is a cultural site with the remains of up to 70 Hindu temples built between the 4th – 13th century by the kings of Champa Kimgdom and the Cham People. The temples are dedicated to Shiva.

The whole site was extensively damaged by US bombing during the Vietnam War. Various international groups, have helped towards its restoration including India, Italy, The Netherlands but excluding the USA!

Our tour group was interesting, it included a lone Korean guy, 2 French couples, a Swiss couple, a Malaysian couple and an Australian group, Nan, Grandad, Son and 8 month old baby!

The difficulty came not from the delightful 8 month old Oscar, who was an Angel but from the Malaysian couple, the husband got on the bus drunk and drinking beer, playing his music very loudly on his phone, obviously he sat next to me! And one of the french couples kept us waiting for nearly 30 mins! In my opinion if you are not at your pick up point at the allotted time you forfeit your place. (Harsh but fair I feel!)

Anyway, the group were ok, we didn’t really bond..😂 However our guide Misa was amazing, so informative.

The actual construction of the temples is fascinating. The bricks they made are aerated and they don’t allow moss or lichen to grown on them, they gaps between the bricks is tiny. All of these things can’t be replicated by modern day construction. Groups have tried to replicate this but so far they have failed. They believe that the bricks have a layer of either honey or resin between them and that they were then coated in something to prevent organic growth. When you see the temples the original bricks look new and the new ones look old! It amazing to think that with all our technology we are unable to produce something as effective as people did in the 4th Century! 😳😳

I’m so glad I made this trip as it was so interesting. We leave the site and head back towards Hoi An, seating arrangements had changed and I was no longer sitting next to Mr Beer drinker, who had consumed a few more drinks during the trip! 🤪

The last part of our journey is on a boat along the river. We also had snacks on the boat, everyone got a Banh Mai, another Vietnamese staple of a crispy baguette with salad, pate and pork, I opted for egg! It was my first Banh Mai and it was yummy. 😋

I spent my last couple of days in Hoi A simply wandering and enjoying the beautiful surroundings. It’s so peaceful to be in the Old Town early in the morning before the crowds come, watching the locals setting up, fishing, chatting and going about their lives.

I also booked myself onto a Lantern making workshop. Hoi An is synonymous with Lanterns, they are everywhere. So I felt it was only right to have one, and to be able to make it myself is great.

It was actually trickier than I’d thought. I had 2 options: 1. Use their ready prepared frame or 2. make the frame as well as covering it. I went for option 2! This involved bending the bamboo, quite a bit of dexterity fitting it all together, then same sewing the hold the frame rigid, but also collapsible! Then you put the material on the frame, this is also pretty difficult, especially if you want your lantern to look nice! Apparently I was a very good student and did a surprisingly good job. 🥰🥰 I did surprise myself at how well it turned out. A fabulous way to spend a morning. 🩵💙

I’ve been chatting to Evi & Donald some more and we also enjoyed a drink together on my last night.

They are in Vietnam for their Grandsons wedding. They are such a lovely couple, Donald is an artist and Film set builder he also used to be part of a Canadian Snow sculpting team! Evi is a beautiful soul. I’m definitely going to visit them in Whitehorse Canada!

This hotel has been a fabulous place to spend time, busy and people are friendly, the staff are fabulous. They gave me a gorgeous embroidered purse as a gift at my last breakfast this morning. ❤️

Hoi An met all of my expectations. If you’re in Vietnam, don’t miss it!

Next I’m off to Hue. Taking another bus, as it’s only 3 hours. I’m using the same company that took me from Dalat to Nha Trang, so fingers crossed it will be as good.

Update.

I resisted buying cowboy boots or a bag! I did however have a dress made! Just a summer floaty one. I also did bump into the lovely seller again! 😂 And now have several bookmarks and fridge magnets! 😍😍

All in all a wonderful 5 days.

Books read.

The Last Dance. Mark Billingham. Good.

I’m sure I’ve read more than 1 book! 🤷‍♀️

Have a fabulous Sunday.

🩵💙🩷❤️💛

Tuesday 17th – Monday 23rd September 2024.

Wow, so it’s been a while since my last blog! Don’t really know why I’ve been so lax, strap in, I think it might be a long one!

One of the reasons I write my blog regularly is so I don’t forget where I’ve been and what I’ve been doing! It’s easy to lose track when you’re moving about.

The last blog ended in Kampot. I’m pleased to say that my bus wasn’t rescheduled and left promptly at 8.30. After a pretty uneventful journey we arrived back into Phnom Penh around lunchtime. I grabbed a Tuk Tuk to the hotel, I’m staying back at the same place, The White Mansion, mainly as it’s central, good value and the bus picks up from here!

I was welcomed back like a long lost relative! 😍 So lovely and they had given me a larger room! I didn’t do much for the rest of the day, swam, read and just relaxed. The weather in the afternoons is usually pretty unpredictable and rainy. A relaxing day and an early night!

On my list of things to do in Phnom Penh had been to do the river walk, just a nice little promenade area down along the riverside.

With the weather looking promising after breakfast I set off. I walked down towards the large Independence Monument, which is impressive. This area also had some trees for shade. I eventually made it to the riverbank, after dodging traffic (I’m a pro at this now😁) and sweating buckets!

The area I arrived at is the spot where the Tonle Sap river and the Mekong River meet, flowing in different directions.

The rivers are very high due to the season and quite wide. It’s surprisingly quiet on this part of the river.

I stop in a cafe for a drink, as I stupidly came out without my water!

As I sit there I can see the rain clouds gathering, so decide to head back.

You can see all the locals covering their stalls and people heading for cover. The wind picks up quite a bit, then the rain comes in a sudden heavy burst! My little umbrella gets turned inside out, spokes are buckled but luckily for me it still works! ☔️ I walk back through the rain, I’m so pleased that Phnom Penh has non slippery paving! Absolute live saver, literally. 😳😀

I stop at a nice little coffee shop on the way, have a coffee and read my book while the rain pours down outside.

When I get back to the hotel it’s still raining, so I decide to do some planning for Vietnam.

Looking for buses from Ho Chi Minh City is a little confusing, so many to choose from and some sites not in English, so many recommendations! In the end I decide to wait until I get to my hotel in HCM and ask them for advice.

I pack up my stuff, go out for a last dinner in Cambodia. Which is obviously going to be Vegetable fried rice!! 😂

My bus is due to arrive at 9.45 so once again I do as instructed and am ready to go at 8.45, luckily, as the driver appears at 9am! What actually happens is the company send a small bus to collect passengers from various hotels and takes them to the main coach in the centre of town, which now makes sense of the flexibility on collecting times!

The coach is great, I have a single seat by the window, it’s pretty busy but everything is looking good!

It’s a 7+ hour trip to Ho Chi Minh City, which includes the border crossing.

I’d like to say it was a good trip and in the most part it was, the coach, drivers, host and the border crossing were all brilliant.

The problem came from the totally obnoxious areshole sitting behind me.

He was simply vile, rude, ignorant and loud!

Every time the lovely host/helper spoke to us about anything, welcoming us aboard, explaining about toilet breaks, information about the border procedure he would make noises (loud enough for everyone to hear) the whole way through the talk! He pushed his way to the front whenever we stopped, complained about the water, the wifi, he was unbelievably rude to the poor host. He then made huffing, snorting noises for no apparent reason, played his phone loudly and listened to a podcast or something which could have been by Andrew Tate it was so misogynistic! A total wanker.

We eventually arrived in Ho Chi Minh City around 5.30. By then I was tired, and I had a headache. I got into a cab to the hotel. I asked the driver how much, having shown him the address, he said it was on a meter, that’s great, so it should be a regulated fare. Sadly not! The twatty driver refused to take me to the actual hotel, dropping me off down the road, then told me it would be 400,000 Vietnamese Dong, which is $20! Which is a total rip off. Unfortunately I was locked in the back of the cab, with my case in the boot and it was either pay him or be stuck in the bloody cab! I paid, told him he was an arsehole, and then walked to my hotel! 🤬

All in all not my best journey so far!

The hotel reception staff were lovely and made me feel lots better, my room was gorgeous with double windows looking over the city. I unpacked, drank a ton of water and took a paracetamol for my headache then ventured out to have a look around the hotel and find some dinner.

I ended up at the rooftop bar, which has fabulous views. It was happy hour so I had a cheeky cocktail, more water then headed down to the restaurant for dinner. The menu was good, with lots of western dishes and Asian dishes, I opted for rice, no surprise. Then It was off to bed, as the whole day had been exhausting! My bed is enormous, comfy and with the best feather pillows, pure heaven! 😌😴😴

I slept really well and was feeling rested, positive and ready to start my Vietnam adventure!

First breakfast!

It’s a buffet style breakfast but the staff are so attentive and can’t seem to do enough for you, which is lovely but also a bit disconcerting!

After breakfast I headed downstairs to speak to the concierge about where to get a SIM card and booking a bus to my next stop, Dalat.

The concierge, Luck, was amazing. He is from Dalat and travels there often. He said I had a couple of options. I could get a private car, which he then contacted a company to get a price. I could fly, or I could get the bus. The private car was going to cost $160 a flight would be the quickest, but also a little expensive, as I was booking last minute. The bus, which Luck uses all the time takes approximately 5 -6 hours and costs $12! I went with the bus. Luck then organised all the booking for me! He sorted out a Spa treatment at a Spa outside the hotel, went over the map with me and highlighted all the places I could go including the phone shop for my Sim! He was a total legend.

So off I went. Phone shop first, easy. New sim fitted and working. Then I made my way to the War Remnants Museum.

I got there just as the heavens opened!

The museum is another difficult place to go, but also an important one. It takes you through the Vietnamese history and most specifically the Vietnam War. I knew most of the history, but not all of the facts and statistics, which are shocking.

I also didn’t really appreciate how devastating the use of chemical weapons, such as Agent Orange, has been for Vietnam and its people. They have such hideous long term effects.

A sobering experience.

When I’d finished in the museum it was still chucking it down but what can you do! I got out my trusty, bent up brolly and off I went!

Ho Chi Minh City also has fairly non slip paving, thank god!

I eventually came to one of the buildings I wanted to visit; The Central Post Office. It’s a beautiful old building and right beside a cathedral I wanted to see. Unfortunately the Cathedral is closed for renovation.

Next to the Post Office I found a fabulous little street full of bookshops!! 😍 It would have been better if it wasn’t still chucking it down!

I ambled back to the hotel, once it stops raining I go up to the rooftop bar and treat myself to a glass of wine!!

I end up sitting next to an American guy called Nicholas from Kansas. He is great company, easy to talk to and the time and the wine go down very nicely! 🍷🍷

He is then joined by his friend and travel buddy, Patrick also very nice to chat too.

After a few glasses I decide, rather sensibly to go and get some dinner, then head to bed.

As I’m sure you are all aware by now it was my birthday!

I’ll be honest I was dreading spending the day on my own, it’s always a mixed feelings day, as it’s also my Wedding Anniversary.

The day turned out to be absolutely fabulous! I was very very spoilt by my beautiful children, Rebecca, Georgia & Grantley and by all my lovely friends! So many treats, messages, wine, cakes, videos!

I’d decided to do very little all day and that’s exactly what I did, which was lucky as the weather was terrible!

I got presented with the most glorious bouquet of flowers at my Champagne breakfast! 🍾💐 Then lots of people wishing me Happy Birthday! The kids had arranged for me to have a Spa treatment.

The lovely Luck, organised and booked it and then sorted out the Grab, which was not easy due to the horrendous weather!

My spa treatment was an amazing herbal massage which involved hot oil and hot stones. It was fantastic and afterwards my back and neck felt the best they have for ages! Then I had a cheeky pedicure, also amazing.

When everything was finished I went through to reception and they bought me over a chair to sit on while I put my shoes on. Unfortunately it was a tricky little wheeled office type chair, I went to sit on it, it moved back and I ended up falling onto the floor! 😳🫣🫢 in front of a room full of people! FFS! 🤦‍♀️ I was OK, a little surprised and the worst of it was I jarred my neck…again!! It’s funny because you end up doing the very British thing of assuring everyone that you’re “Fine” but inside you want to cry! 😢

I headed back to the hotel and was determined this was not spoiling my day, so I took an ibuprofen and cracked on with things!! 👍😍

I took myself to the rooftop bar ordered a glass of my favourite Whispering Angel wine 😇 and had a fabulous evening. I chatted again to Nicholas & Patrick and also a beautiful English couple, Dom & Grace who had just got engaged! ❤️

The staff presented me with a personalised Vietnamese Hat and the whole bar sang Happy Birthday 🥳😚 Then I went to bed, watched rubbish on Netflix and eat birthday cake! All in all a wonderful day!

Thank to everyone who made it so fabulous. 🩷💚🩵❤️

To my surprise I woke the next day feeling ok, neck is sore but not too bad. It’s also not raining! Yeah!

I set out to explore a little more. As it’s Sunday everyone is out and about, sitting in the park with friends, drinking coffee, visiting places. I walk to the Independence Palace, it’s a really interesting place to visit, and very busy!

As I arrive I spot an older man on his own, he keeps looking over at me and eventually asks me if I’m on my own, he explains that he is and it’s his first visit to the Palace. He asks if we can look around together, I say no problem. I think he wanted me to take some photos of him in the palace, which I did. He was very sweet. He didn’t want to look around the whole place so we parted ways after I took lots of pics of him! 😍 I didn’t get a pic of us together 🤦‍♀️ Imdid get one of him walking away!

It’s started to rain a little so I go off for a wander through the park and the local area. It’s great to just walk and observe life going on.

I decide I need a coffee and opt to go back to the Book street as I’d seen a lovely little cafe there.

I have to say the Vietnamese take their coffee very seriously! Every other building is a coffee shop, and they are all full!

The book street is nice and busy as is the Cafe. I try my first Vietnamese Coffee, made with condensed milk….delicious! 😋 I’m sitting enjoying my coffee reading my book when a family sit down beside me. Then the young lad with them scoots his chair over and asks me where I’m from. This leads to myself and Quan having an hour long conversation about all sorts, books, his favourite is Diary of a Whimpy Kid! School, my children, my travels, his friends, Vietnam history, food…..all of this in English and Quan is 8!! He was amazing, such a chatty, clever thing. Neither of his parents spoke English, he said he learns from YouTube, books and online! Quan & I were then joined by another young lad, Pep, who is 14. He was also very smart and spoke great English.

It was such a wonderful, unexpected encounter and I loved it.

As Quan and his family were leaving they gave me a beautiful canvas bag (that the dad had run over the road to purchase) as a gift! 💝🥰 How beautiful is that!

Back at the hotel I go for my first swim in the rooftop pool, as it’s not raining. The pool is bloody freezing! 🥶 Invigorating but bloody cold!

Needless to say I’m the only nutter in there!

This is followed by a beautiful foot massage at the hotel spa, which was one of the best I’ve had! So wonderful. Thank you gorgeous Tracey & Haley.❤️❤️

I opt to go out for dinner, so have a mooch around by the hotel. I go into a very cute little place that looks very Instagram inspired, flowers, pastel colours, teddy bears everywhere and full of beautiful young people.

I would have loved to stay but didn’t want a coffee and the menu was limited in terms of what I wanted. I then tried another 3 places. I was looking for noddles or rice but without meat or seafood! Honestly harder than finding someone with an IQ at a Trump Rally!

Eventually I find a little food stall in a Fabulous market across from the hotel who was prepared to make me rice with just vegetables 🌽🥒.

I do think I’m going to struggle a bit in terms of food, as I don’t really eat seafood or pork, which are the stable ingredient in lots of dishes. I’m sure I will figure it out!

I have enjoyed my time in Ho Chi Minh City, I would like to come back at some point and explore more around the area, I just didn’t have the time, the weather or the energy this time.

Some observations so far. The city is very modern but with traditional stuff here and there. The young people are super stylish and very beautiful. Everyone I’ve met so far has been kind and helpful (apart from the taxi driver, but he’s an aberration!) Coffee is serious business, they are very proud of their country and their culture.

Today I’m heading by bus to a place inland, Dalat. It’ll be interesting to see how the Vietnamese buses are!

As a little side note. I am due to be traveling through Vietnam heading northwards. Unfortunately the country is suffering with a really bad Typhoon season, and things up north in Hoi An, Hanoi and Sapa are pretty bad. They were hit a week ago by a huge storm, called Nagi and there has been a great deal of damage, flooding and landslides.

Travel advice at present is not to travel to these areas, particularly Hanoi and Sapa. I will keep a watch on things and if I need to, will change my plans accordingly.

That’s it for now my lovelies.

Books read.

The Secret of Flowers. Sally Page. Another lovely one by this author. Really enjoyed it.

That’s it! Bit slow on the reading front at the moment!

Have a great week everyone.

Love and hugs.

🩵💚❤️🩷💝